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A Message From 
Batang 



The Diary of 
Z. S. LOFTIS, M.D. 

Misstonary to Tibetans 




New York Chicago Toronto 

Fleming H. Revell Company 

London and Edinburgh 



Copyright, 191 1, by 
FLEMING H. REVELL COMPANY 



^^it 



New York: 158 Fifth Avenue 
Chicago: 123 North Wabash Ave. 
Toronto: 25 Richmond Street, W. 
London: 21 Paternoster Square 
Edinburgh: 100 Princes Street 



©CI.A303585 



\. 



To his Mother 

and 

the cause he loved 



** You take the Bible to the heathen and he may 
spit upon it, or throw it aside as worthless or harm- 
ful. You preach the Gospel to him, and he may 
regard you as a hireling who makes preaching a 
trade. He may meet your arguments with sophis- 
try, your appeals with a sneer. You educate him 
and he may turn from a heathen to an infidel. But 
heal his bodily ailments in the name of Christ, and 
you are sure at least that he will love you and bless 
you, and all that you say will have to him a meaning 
and a power not conveyed by other lips." 

Dr. George E. Post. 
Syria. 



Preface 

The task of writing this preface has seemed 
most difficult ; not the work, but that I may use 
the words he would wish me to use, that what I 
write may reach the hearts he hoped to reach, that 
out of his labor and his thoughts may come the 
power he would wish them to have. 

"Whatever was difficult, whatever was tiresome, 
whatever trials he had on his long journey, he made 
no complaint in his little book, and it could not 
have been all easy. 

The knowledge he gained that no one before him 
had hitherto acquired, especially concerning the 
great Litang Monastery, has the right to be given 
to the world through his name. 

On seeing the solitary grave three days out from 
Batang, if then the tragedy of his fate entered his 
soul, we can never know ; but if it did he came off 
victor from the struggle, and bowed his head in 
submission to the Higher WiU, and we are the 
losers. His ability, his knowledge is lost, such a 
loss I could never make you know or feel. 

" So many worlds, so much to do. 

So little done, such things to be ; 
How know I what had need of thee, 
For thou wert strong as thou wert true. 



Preface 

** The fame is quenched that I foresaw, 

The head hath missed an earthly wreath ; 
I curse not nature, no, nor death ; 
For nothing is that errs from law. 

" So here shall silence guard thy fame 
But somewhere out of human view, 
Whate'er thy hands are set to do 
Is wrought with tumult of acclaim." 

— Tennyson. 
Batangj West China. 



Autobiography 



Z. S. LoFTis, M. D., was a native of Tennessee, 
born in Gainsboro, May 11, 1881, where be lived 
until he was seven years of age. His parents then 
moved to a Kansas farm, where he worked dm-ing 
the summer and attended school during the winter 
months. After several years the family moved to 
Central Texas, where his school work still con- 
tinued. During spare times he learned the printers' 
trade and studied photography. He became a Chris- 
tian at the age of thirteen and was actively identified 
in Sunday-school and church work. Upon the death 
of his father in 1898, he was thrown largely upon his 
own resources. In 1899 he entered the Depart- 
ment of Pharmacy in Vanderbilt University from 
which he graduated in 1901, winning the Founders' 
medal given to the honor man of the class. For 
several years he worked at retail drug business and 
in manufacturing laboratories supporting his mother. 

It was while doing slum mission work and teach- 
ing in a Chinese Sunday-school in St. Louis that he 
felt a call to become a medical missionary. He 
then offered himself to God for that purpose and 
set about trying to secure a medical education. 
He came to Nashville and entered Yanderbilt Med- 
ical Department, working outside school hours 
each day to earn money to pay his expenses. In 



Autobiography 

the summer of 1906 he was sent by the college to 
the Southern Students' Y. M. C. A. Conference at 
Asheville, North Carolina. As yet he had not de- 
cided on any particular place, but was praying that 
he might be sent to the most difficult and needy 
field in all the world. At the Asheville Confer- 
ence he heard of Tibet. The very fact that it was 
a closed land and so difficult of access caused him 
to pray that he might be sent there. During his 
senior year in college he served as president of the 
]S'ashville Student Yolunteer Union. In January, 
1908, he was appointed by the Foreign Christian 
Missionary Society of Cincinnati as a medical mis- 
sionary to Tibet. Shortly afterwards the Yine 
Street Christian Church of Nashville pledged to 
support him as their representative in the foreign 
field since he was an active member of that church, 
being much interested in the Sunday-school and 
city mission work. Graduated from Yanderbilt 
Medical Department in June, 1908, and sailed for 
the foreign field, September 18th, the same year. 



Contents 



I. 


Bound Towards the Orient 


13 


II. 


Nearing the " Far East " 


20 


III. 


First Glimpse of China — Shanghai 


25 


IV. 


In and About Nankin 


31 


V. 


Up the Yangtse .... 


42 


VI. 


On Towards Batang 


50 


VII. 


Overland Towards the Tibetan 






Border 


64 


VIII. 


In the Tibetan Passes 


81 


IX. 


At the Top of the World 


97 


X. 


Lodging in the " Forbidden City " . 


109 


XI. 


The Journey from Litang 


123 


XII. 


A Lonely Grave .... 


135 


XIII. 


Above the Clouds . . . , 


138 


XIV. 


Batang at Last .... 


142 



Illustrations 



City of Batang Frontispiece 

On Board the good ship " Mongolier" Facing page 14'^ 
House for Chinese Soldiers near Shanghai . . 26 ' 
House-boat on the Yangtse River . . .26^ 
Entrance to Ming Tomb at Nankin, China . 36"^ 
Chinese Arch . . . . . . -36 

Gehwji near Samba . . . , , .100 
Dr. Loftis in the Coracli . . . . .100 

Kanger Building . . . , . .120 

Principal Hall of the Litang Monastery . . 120 
Mr. Soutter's Grave at Samba .... 136 

Headman at Samba . . . . . .136 

Grave of Dr. Loftis at Batang . , . . 144 



A Message From Batang 



Bound Towards the Orient 

S. S. ''Mongolia," Sept 15, 1909. 

August 31st I left Nashville, Tenn., for Cincin- 
nati, Ohio. The day was a very busy one, and at 
8 p. M. my train was off. About fifty of my friends 
were at the depot to wish me good-bye, and during 
the last moments sang, " God be with you till we 
meet again," and repeated the Mizpah benediction. 
The memory of this will always be dear to me. As 
the train rolled away the long trip had really 
begun, and I was at last started on my journey. 

Arriving at Cincinnati I remained the 1st, 2d 
and 3d for the annual Missionary Conference. 
There were about thirty-five old and new mission- 
aries present, and we spent the time in a spiritual 
feast. September 6th found me at home in Kogers, 
Texas, where two of my cousins had arrived the 
day previous to wish me farewell, and so we were 
a happy bunch. We went to Sunday-school and 
church in my old home church. The next few 
days were spent very busily and happily with 
mother and my old friends. September 10th I 
bade mother and my other loved ones farewell, and 

13 



14 A Message from Batang 

started for the coast. Arriving in San Antonio I 
found my train late, so went to visit the Alamo. 
There I entered the rooms occupied by our brave 
men, and stood by the spots made sacred by the 
shed blood of those who gave their lives for the 
cause they loved. It made my heart swell with 
emotion as I thought of Bowie, Travis and 
Crockett, who were glad to serve their country 
thus. What a privilege to lay down one's life for 
a cause he loves. 

On September 16th, at 1 p. m., the good ship 
Mongolia left her moorings, and the steady throb- 
bing of the great engines began. I stood on deck and 
watched the waving mass of humanity on the pier, 
but knew no soul there. My last farewells had 
been spoken. We slowly steamed out through the 
harbor, through the Golden Gate and then the 
prow of the ship was pointed towards the southwest. 
There was no sorrow in my heart as I saw the 
loved native land fading in the distance, holding all 
that was dear to me except my work. I turned 
my face and heart towards the setting sun, and be- 
gan to settle down for the long voyage. 

Sejptemher 17th. 
I opened my first steamer letter to-day and it 
made me very happy to know how my Yine Street 
friends love me. It is quite inspiring to know that 
good true people are praying daily for me. How I 
wish they might know how well and happy I am 
to-day ! The ocean is a glorious sight, almost as 




o 



% 



Bound Towards the Orient 15 

calm as a large river, the sun shines directly down, 
causing the water to glisten with the dancing light. 
I begin to be able to appreciatiB more and more the 
poems and stories of the ocean. Two expressions 
especially have been running in my mind, " KoU 
on! thou deep and dark blue ocean, roll," and 
" Spread round all, old ocean's gray and melancholy 
waste." The day closed with letter writing, and 
in reading " The Lady of the Decoration," laugh- 
ing and crying over it. 

September Wth. 
The first Sunday on the ocean ! How different 
from the last two! "We had services after the 
Episcopal form, and the old familiar hymns 
sounded as good out here as they did at home. 



Sejpterriber '21st. 
Early this a. m. the ship was astir with subdued 
excitement. Passengers were out on deck at day- 
break, eagerly looking for a glimpse of that be- 
loved " terra flrma " which had seemed so far away 
during part of the voyage. To the south could be 
seen a long, low, dark mass of color which we soon 
saw to be land. On the opposite side we could see 
large, rough rocky hills which we were told was 
the island on which Honolulu was located. Soon 
we were summoned to the dining-room, and found 
that we must be inspected before we could land. 
The steward came down with a bunch of letters 



i6 A Message from Batang 

which he began to distribute, and I for a moment 
felt a longing for a letter, when I remembered that 
all my mail would come the way I had come, and 
necessarily could not reach me here, but just then 
the steward handed me a letter addressed to my 
own self. A lady who had been similarly sur- 
prised a month before passed the delightful experi- 
ence along to me. As we neared the pier some 
eight or ten native boys were seen swimming in 
the water, and diving for the coins which were 
cast into the sea by the passengers. They would 
watch the piece of money plunge into the water, 
then swim towards the spot where it disappeared, 
dive after it, and invariably catch it before it had 
reached the bottom and bring it up triumphantly. 
They kept it in their mouths for want of a better 
pocket, then called the admiring passengers to 
throw down more. "We soon were ashore, but 
somehow I didn't feel at home on solid ground, 
and had diflBculty in getting about with as much 
facility as usual. The ground didn't rock and sway 
like the ship, and my feet were surprised at the 
ground not coming up to meet them. 

The first place we visited was the market house. 
There I saw many fruits I had never dreamed of, 
and many others whose names I had heard but had 
never seen. Fish of all kinds, sizes and colors, 
from tiny shrivelled ones that seemed to have been 
pulled before they were ripe, to the big ugly devil- 
fish. I left the market feeling that nature had in- 
deed supplied these Hawaiians with plenty to eat, and 



Bound Towards the Orient 17 

was thankful I didn't have to taste at least a little 
of each new thing I saw. E'ext we caught a street- 
car, and travelled through a regular maze of 
beauty. Right here I pause before the immensity 
of the task before me ! — that of describing what I 
saw. In order to do it justice I should have to kiss 
the Blarney stone several times, then for a pen, 
pluck a feather from the most gorgeous hued bird- 
of -paradise that ever lived; and for ink I would need 
a concentrated mixture of ten thousand selected 
rainbows, mixed with a few tons of the brightest 
tropical flowers, all dissolved in the most highly col- 
ored ocean in the world ; while for a scroll I would 
need heaven's broad expanse, tinted with the com- 
bined beauty of a dozen of the most exquisitely 
colored sunsets which nature can paint. 

All this and more would be needed to adequately 
convey the faintest conception of the beauties we 
saw. Nature must indeed have been in lavish 
mood when she poured out her cornucopia of beau- 
ties on this favored spot. There may be other 
spots more beautiful, but I'm from Missouri ! Then 
we went out along the famous Waikiki beach, the 
finest in all the world ; through the trees we caught 
sight of the ocean, and never did I dream that 
water could assume such delightful hues. The 
waves burst into milk-white spray, and came curl- 
ing in on the clean white sand. Then beyond were 
the most delicate tints of green and blue, shading 
off into the sky so gradually that it was hard to 
tell where one began and the other ended. "Next 



i8 A Message from Batang 

we visited the aquarium which is reckoned as the 
finest in the world. The fish were all on parade, 
as if conscious of their beauty and gorgeous color- 
ing ; even the ugly devil-fish did a few stunts for 
our special benefit, but it made one get white 
around the mouth, he got so angry when we tried 
to arouse him to activity. If it were possible for 
me to describe the fish I saw I wouldn't do it, for 
my friends would read my description, and sadly 
shake their heads, and say, "Poor boy ! I feared it. 
I almost knew his mind would give way under the 
strain of leaving home and loved ones, and at last 
it has happened." We came back to town and 
out towards Diamond Head, through a lovely valley, 
with the most delightful homes we could possibly 
imagine. I think I would be satisfied if I got to 
heaven, and was shown a home as beautiful as some 
of those, and was told it was to be mine eternally. 
After a most delicious lunch at the Y. M. C. A. 
building we went across the street and saw the first 
frame building erected in the islands. It was built 
in 1821, having been shipped around the Horn, and 
was in the island a year before the king would al- 
low it to be erected, saying, " No one should live 
in a finer house than he." 

We then visited the Koyal Palace, and saw the 
throne room, and a little of the splendor of the 
departed kings and queens of Hawaii. There was 
something pathetic about the beauty which seemed 
a mockery of the departed power of an extinct 
government and its rapidly disappearing people, as 



Bound Towards the Orient 19 

the race is being absorbed by the other national- 
ities which have invaded the islands. 

Another car ride took us out into a beautiful 
valley, past the tombs of the kings and queens, 
" The powerful of earth," for even in this fairy-land 
people die. At present there are only two of the 
'^ royal line " living, and soon the last will have been 
laid in " their last resting-place by those who in 
their turn shall follow them," and so we get our 
lesson, " And yet a few days and thee the all-be- 
holding sun shall see no more," and are reminded 
that we should live not as those who have no hope, 
but sustained and soothed by an unfaltering trust, ap- 
proach our " grave like one who wraps the drapery 
of his couch about him and lies down to sleep and 
pleasant dreams." There is so much of beauty, so 
much of sentiment on these islands, that one feels 
that it is indeed fairy-land, where all the inhabit- 
ants are fairies, and every day a holiday. 

As the ship left the harbor the divers again 
followed us, sporting in the water as if it were 
their native element. As the land once more faded 
in the distance, we turned our faces westward, 
while our hearts were filled with praise and thanks- 
giving to God for the joys of this day. The sunset 
was most beautiful, and I was loath to go indoors 
and leave nature for even a few hours. 



II 

Nearing the " Far East '* 

Septemher 25th. 

There was to have been a dance on board this 
evening, but owing to the death of a passenger it 
was postponed. An old gentleman and his wife 
were going to Japan to visit one of their children, 
but it will be a sad meeting that will occur when 
the poor old mother greets her child alone, and 
tells her sad story. 

This has been the second death so far as I know 
that has occurred since we left San Francisco. The 
other poor man was buried at sea, and in the night 
time. Out of respect for the dead, the machinery 
was stopped, and the corpse, wrapped in its shroud, 
was dropped over the rail into the deep, cold sea. 
There was a splash, a ripple on the ocean's bosom, 
then the sea closed over the spot, and the body 
sank into the dark depths, " without a grave, un- 
knelled, uncofflned and unknown." There were 
few to watch the sad burial, or to mingle their salt 
tears with the ocean's briny ones ; but at that last 
great day when the trumpet shall sound, will not 
this man rise from his watery grave to stand before 
his King to be judged just the same as the man 
who was buried with pomp and glory in an expen- 

20 



Nearing the " Far East " 21 

sive, hermetically sealed casket, where the worm 
and the water cannot enter ? Yes, we shall meet 
him there when we, too, go to receive our reward. 

September Wth. 
To-day the wind was blowing a good, stiff gale, 
driving the rain and spray before it in blinding 
sheets. This, with the fog, made it impossible to 
see more than a short distance from the vessel. 
The wind shrieked and whistled through the 
shrouds ; the captain anxiously walked the deck 
and bridge, looking for anything that might mean 
danger to us. The wind drove the spray like snow, 
taking it off from the surface of the water, and 
blowing it along in streaks, sometimes pitching it 
up and whirling it round and round, like dust in a 
whirlwind on a summer day. About noon the sun 
came through the clouds, and every wave that 
burst into spray had its rainbow. Every moment 
the picture would change : never the same. Every 
wave and every rainbow had a beauty all of its 
own. It was all gloriously different, so that one 
would never tire of the wonderful panorama of 
ocean views which the kind Creator so freely dis- 
played for our enjoyment, it seemed. My heart 
swelled with gratitude and emotions unspeakable. 
I felt no fear, because I knew the Master was 
guiding us, and that He was just the same as when 
aroused by His frightened disciples during a storm, 
He calmed the angry tempest by " Peace be still," 
and the winds and waves obeyed Hitn. I knew the 



22 A Message from Batang 

Father held all this wild, turbulent, stormy ocean 
in the hollow of His hand, and not one of the 
agitated elements could harm me without His con- 
sent. It was great to feel that my Father con- 
trolled all this, and that it was all His. Some of 
the old familiar songs took on a deeper meaning 
after what I had seen. For example 

*' Jesus Saviour, pilot me, 
Over life's tempestuous sea. 
Unknown waves before me roll, 
Hiding rock and treacherous shoal." 

This can only mean more to one who has seen 
the unknown waves rolling before him as far 
as eye could reach. " Lead kindly Light amid 
the encircling gloom," comes with greater force 
when you see the fog settling down around you, 
and hear the shrill blast of the wind and roar of 
the waves about you. It is worth while to be able 
to look up into heaven and know that your Father 
is on His throne, and nothing can go wrong. 

October M. 
"When I arose this morning I looked out and saw 
land again, the first view of the " Sunrise King- 
dom." Soon after landing we found ourselves 
seated in jinrikishas, and headed for a restaurant. 
This was something new. Here I was in a little 
one-seated, two-wheeled buggy, with a man for a 
horse. I thought the proper name would be 
" Pull-man car." He trotted up streets and down 



Nearing the " Far East " 23 

streets, and finally reached our destination where, 
amid many profuse bows, we went up-stairs to a 
large table, and after great exertion succeeded ia 
ordering dinner. After sightseeing for some time 
we came back to the wharf, and finding a launch, 
started for the ship ; ran aground trying to get out 
of the harbor, spent an hour getting off, but finally 
reached the steamer in safety. 

October 6th. 
Found us passing through the famous Inland Sea ; 
beautiful islands were all about us ; and the blue 
water still and smooth, with its many sails, small 
fishing craft, and here and there a coasting vessel 
puffing out black smoke, made a pretty picture. 
After I have heard the missionaries speak in Japa- 
nese to the people, I have been most anxious to get 
down to the study of my language, so I can work 
with my people, the Tibetans. How I long for the 
time when I may tell of Him who sent me to min- 
ister unto them, using their own language ! 

October 6th. 
When I awoke we were in the harbor at l!^aga- 
saki, said to be the best protected harbor on the 
globe. This is the second fastest coaUng station in 
the world, the record being 4,000 tons in nineteen 
hours, all done fey hand ! There were about fifty 
coal barges around the ship. Ladders were quickly 
built up against the sides, and the human chain was 
formed. Men and women on the barges quickly 



24 A Message from Batang 

filled the small grass baskets, and they were started 
up the line. They moved as steadily as if by ma- 
chinery. All day long they would keep this up, 
receiving about forty cents a day. 

October 7th. 
Out in the YeUow Sea ! The last day on the 
ocean. To-morrow I reach the land which hence- 
forth is to be my home. I begin a new life to- 
morrow. The same person, but a new life. I leave 
America behind when I leave the Mongolia. May 
God help me to be worthy of the charge. To-night 
I went out on the prow and enjoyed the beauty of 
the sea. The moon was almost a cloud, flooding the 
sea with silver. When it would disappear I could 
see the phosphorescence in the water to better ad- 
vantage. It was very bright, and the ship seemed 
plowing through a sea of fire. The ship has now 
anchored off the bar waiting for morning. I feel 
happy to know that to-morrow will mark a new 
era in my life. I leave old friends and scenes, and 
enter upon an entirely new field of work. May 
God bless my efforts, and help me to be humble and 
prayerful. 



Ill 

First Glimpse of China — Shanghai 

October 8th. 

DiscovEEED CMna to-day. Woke up and saw 
land in the distance. Looked at the water and 
found it as muddy as it could be. The great 
Yangste here empties its load of sand and silt into 
the sea, and pushes it out for fifty miles into the 
ocean. We started up the mouth of the Yangste, 
which here is fifty or sixty miles across. We soon 
dropped anchor, and as I came down the steps I 
bade farewell to the dear old Mongolia, which was 
the last tie between me and America. It was a 
long way to the wharf, but at last our launch ar- 
rived, and two of our missionaries were there, and 
gave me a hearty welcome and some letters. I had 
a letter from the Batang people giving me so much 
desired information, and making my heart glad to 
know they were so thoughtful of me. 

Well, here I was in China at last, the day I had 
dreamed of for many long days ; but it was no 
time for dreaming now. Our baggage attended to, 
we started for the missionary home. The streets 
were swarming with Chinese of all kinds, who 
would be most unattractive but for the fact that 
they possess a human soul which our Master loves. 

25 



26 A Message from Batang 

In the afternoon I started out shopping, but first 
had some money changed, and if the Japanese coin 
is bad, this is terrible. I got a handful of different 
coins, no two of which were exactly alike, though 
some were of the same value. I was told that a 
dollar was worth more than ten ten-cent pieces, 
and several other paradoxical things. Started out 
along the street to see things, and, well I saw 
them — shops, tea-houses, travelling restaurants, old 
Chinamen and young ones, beggars holding up a 
stub of an arm or a sore hand. Once in a while a 
foreigner, and semi-occasionally an American face. 
Here I was chasing around on the streets of Shang- 
hai, China, alone as I would in America. The 
great trouble was I couldn't " rubber," badly as I 
wanted to, for the minute I began to look around 
I showed that I was a tenderfoot, and a half dozen 
" rikisha " coolies would spot me, and swarm around 
to make me ride. My only chance was to look 
absolutely unconcerned, and strike out down the 
street as if I knew just where I was going and why, 
and then they would let me alone. 

Only one member of the Mongolia passenger list 
besides myself is here, and I feel that indeed the 
crowd is scattering. To-night I'm writing these 
words alone, in a little room at the very top of the 
building (for it's mission money I am spending, and 
I must not be hard to satisfy) ; my observation to- 
day has told me that there is an immense amount 
of work to be done here in Shanghai, and further- 
more that it will take a long time to do it with all 




House for Chinese Soldiers near Shanghai 




Houseboat on the Yangtse River 



First Glimpse of China — Shanghai 27 

the counteracting evil forces foreigners are im- 
porting. 

October 10th. 

I went around to see our school in Shanghai, and 
saw a number of bright-faced boys studying with 
all their might, and out loud, too. It made me very 
happy to see them, and the good work here. They 
gave me a Chinese name, Lo E Sen (Dr. Lo). A most 
cordial invitation was extended to me to come and 
work in Kantungchow, and I couldn't help but feel 
the strength of the appeal. A great field, money 
already provided for the hospital, two nice homes 
already built, and enough work to keep half a 
dozen busy for a hundred years ! Such an oppor- 
tunity ! How I wish I had another life to invest 
there. 

I went to our mission here for Sunday-school 
and church. There was quite a number present, 
and some had such good faces ; men I could not 
help but love and trust. One good old elder im- 
pressed me very much, as well as an old Bible 
woman who had spent thirty years in the Master's 
service. At the close we had a very sweet com- 
munion service with the Master, and I left much 
happier for what I had seen. 

In the afternoon we had another very delightful 
service, and I was introduced and spoke a few 
words. As there were a number of children 
present I thought of my own Yine Street Sunday- 
school scholars, and the interesting faces I looked 



28 A Message from Batang 

into a few Sundays ago in Nashville, as I told 
them good-bye. Then I told the Chinese children 
of the Vine Street Sunday-school, and how they 
had sent greetings and love to them. I saw their 
faces light up with interest as the interpreter spoke, 
and they all stood and desired that I send their 
love and greeting to my little friends in 
America. 

Another thing I did before the morning service 
was to go with Mr. "Ware to some tea-shops with 
some leaflets. He told me to say " Please look " 
in Chinese, and so I passed out a number with 
these words. They were all received very kindly 
and willingly, some were read and some carried 
away. 

I was very happy to do this, my first service for 
my Master here in China. May God bless the 
seed thus sown, and may it bring fruit to His 
honor and glory. 

At nine o'clock in the evening went to another 
service held by Chinese boys who have to work 
during the day, and therefore have to meet at this 
time. They have a room rented, and defray all 
expenses themselves. A very earnest and conse- 
crated set of Christian boys. It was an inspiration 
to look into their faces. "When they were told 
where I was going they were much interested, 
and asked many questions, and one suggested they 
have a word of prayer for my safety on my way. 
So we stood with bowed heads while one of these 
boys carried their petition to our Father's throne 



First Glimpse of China — Shanghai 29 

that I might have a successful and safe journey. 
As I heard my new name presented to the Father 
by these my Chinese brothers, my eyes filled with 
tears, and even now as I write my heart swells 
within me as I think of these consecrated Chinese 
Christians, doing this loving service for the Mas- 
ter's servant. Those few moments alone more 
than repaid me for many weary hours of trial 
I have had to reach this place. May God shower 
His blessings on this band of noble boys. It has 
been a glorious day, for which I am very thankful. 

October 13th. 
Started for [N'ankin to-day. Boarded the train 
at twelve o'clock, and was soon going through the 
country. Little farms were all about and people 
watering them. The canals form a fine waterway 
system. "We passed a number of villages where the 
people lived in little grass huts. One thing that 
impressed me very much was the immense number 
of graves everywhere to be seen. Thousands and 
thousands of graves dotted the fields as far as the 
eye could reach, and scarcely at any time could I 
look from the car window without seeing these 
countless mounds. As I mused on the multitudes 
that slumbered here, the horrible thought flashed 
over me that these were all graves of heathen, of 
men and women who had gone down to the grave 
without the knowledge of Jesus, and without hope. 
What a scene it will be when, on the last great 
day, they shall stand before the judgment bar and 



30 A Message from Batang 

say, " "We did not know — they, your disciples, did 
not tell us." 

The train reached Nankin in the evening, and I 
was greeted most heartily by our missionaries there, 
visited the hospital, and saw what an immense 
work is carried on here, enough to keep one-half 
dozen men busy at home. 



IV 

In and About Nankin 

October mK 
Eaely this A. M. a Mr. Yang, a Chinese evan- 
gelist who had been in Ta chien lu, called to see 
me, and gave me some valuable information con- 
cerning the work there, and method of travel, also 
much of the danger of the trip, and I realize God 
must guide my frail little boat through the rapids. 
In the afternoon an outing had been planned 
for the newcomers. "We were to go to the Ming 
tombs about five miles from the city. On the way 
we made several stops, one in an old temple 
where we were shown the footprints of holy blood. 
The story is that a Chinese emperor was about to 
be slain, and his prime minister sprang between ' 
him and danger, and was killed. His " blood 
stains " are still shown on the table, yet the temple 
is hundreds of years old. We went on out the 
east gate, left our rickishas and started on foot for 
the tombs. Our road led through what seemed to 
be an immense graveyard ; thousands of graves 
were about us, many were dome or bell-shaped, 
marking Buddhist tombs. Many others were 
simply made by placing the coffin on the ground, 
and covering with a bit of earth. Often the coffin 
was bare, the soil having been washed off, or 
rooted away by hogs. 

31 






32 A Message from Batang 

"We walked for a mile or more through these 
graves to reach the " Avenue of animals." This 
road led to the tombs, and was built four hundred 
or five hundred years ago. On either side of the 
road are great stone statues, representing various 
animals as well as men, some standing and some 
crouching as if to spring. Always a pair of ani- 
mals of the same kind, one on either side of the 
avenue facing each other. There were lions, tigers, 
camels, elephants, men and horses. Many had 
been carved from a single stone, pedestal and all, 
and some of them weighed tons, since they were 
larger than life size, several more than fifteen feet 
in height. On many were heaped a great number 
of small stones, which had been thrown by na- 
tives who believed that if they threw a pebble up 
and it remained, the prayer which they had just 
made would be answered. "We went on across 
some massive piles of masonry which had once 
been the gateway to the enclosure within which, 
somewhere, was buried the Emperor Ming, founder 
of the Ming Dynasty, which flourished before 
Columbus crossed the Atlantic in his little ships. 

We passed through two or three large gates, and 
past great tablets supported by immense stone 
turtles, past slabs of stone sunk in the ground upon 
which were carved fantastic and grotesque figures 
of the Chinese dragon. Everything was on such a 
massive scale that the very size of arches and carv- 
ings was wonderful, and must have represented the 
slow, patient labor of untold thousands of poor 



In and About Nankin 33 

heathen. Grass and trees had grown up all about 
and within the walls, the stones were moss covered, 
and worn with ages of rain, and snow. It was 
here we got a most magnificent view. The sun- 
light was sifting through the clouds in long silvery 
rays, touching in the distance the broad surface of 
the Yangste, making it glow like a ribbon of 
burnished silver. Then the city of Nankin en- 
closed in its great stone wall which stood out 
sombre and cold with its serrated top like great 
teeth. Next the broad plain strewn with the tens of 
thousands of grassy mounds and rough coffins 
where slept those who had helped build all these 
magnificent arches and palaces. The stone animals 
stood like great silent sentinels guarding the post, 
while just at our feet lay the crumbling walls, 
and within were the walks and gardens, long since 
bereft of the busy throng, for many centuries fallen 
asleep. After returning home we sang a few of 
the old songs, and it was a little hard to realize 
this was China, though when we sang, " Way 
down upon the Suwannee River, far, far away," 
there was a peculiar accent on the words " far, 
far " which I had never noticed before. 

October 18th. 
Went to a communion service in the morning, 
and afternoon went for a stroll and walked about 
among the graves, as there is no place else to go, 
and came back through some narrow streets filled 
with odors! The Chinese don't seem to know 



34 A Message from Batang 

what a sewer is, so everything that is waste is 
thrown into the streets. Great green slimy pools 
are very plentiful, and seem to contain the filth of 
centuries, and I guess they do. Hog-pens are often 
built adjoining the house, the object beiag to save 
building but three sides to the enclosure, a brilliant 
idea! Sometimes for safety and convenience the 
hog is kept in the house. 

October Wth. 

Went with Dr. Macklin on a preaching tour into 
the country, seven or eight miles from the hospital 
building. We travelled through some very beauti- 
ful farming country, through green fields and pretty 
roads, past little hamlets half hidden among trees. 
Passed a number of small temples, and looking in 
could see the hideous idols, and it almost made my 
" flesh crawl " to think that people were actually 
worshipping these things. Finally we reached a 
little village, and stopped at a tea-house. We seated 
ourselves on a little bench at a dirty table, and a 
dirty old woman served us some tea in some very 
dirty cups, from a very dirty teakettle. The 
bowls were sterilized with boiling water, and as 
the tea was made from boiled water, we were 
comparatively safe from cholera and like germs. 

We were no sooner seated than the doctor be- 
gan to talk and preach to those about him. The 
tea-house with its contents and inmates was a 
study. The building itself was made of bamboo, 
mud and straw, the inside was almost black from 



In and About Nankin 35 

the smoke of ages. In one corner sat an old woman 
spinning a kind of linen thread. There were a half 
dozen small tables around, where Chinamen were 
sitting and drinking tea, smoking and talking. A 
barber was plying his trade near by on a bench, 
shaving his customer's head with a peculiar little 
razor having a broad but short blade. Some men 
stood about looking on. A few women with their 
babies were sitting about watching us. Some 
larger children played about on the ja.oor, which 
was only hard earth. "While the doctor was 
preaching a little baby about two years old was 
brought to us. It had a very bright face, but when 
we looked into its eyes we saw it was stone blind in 
both, and that the little hands that groped slowly 
about its father's neck were in darkness that would 
never more be lifted. AU caused by neglect and 
ignorance, coupled with sin. It made me sick at 
heart as I thought of the doomed future before it, 
of being a beggar in the midst of spiritual darkness 
even greater than the physical. 

October 26th. 
I still study in the hospital, and to-day witnessed 
rather a gruesome sight. One of the patients died 
yesterday. He was put in a vacant room, where 
he remained alone till this afternoon, when his 
friends came for him bringing a rough, unlined, 
unpainted, wooden coffin. The coffins are pretty 
well made, of heavy timber four or five inches 
thick, and well joined. The body was placed in 



36 A Message from Batang 

the coffin with no bathing, or other preparation, in 
the same clothes in which he died, and with wide- 
open, staring eyes, the lid fastened on, and all borne 
away by coolies to be buried. 

Ootober ^8th. 
Yisited a Taoist temple. A priest kindly showed 
us through the building and we saw where incense 
was burning to gods of wood and stone. My heart 
was heavy within me as I saw an intelligent man 
prostrating himself before the idols who had eyes 
but cannot see, and ears but heard not. 

Noveivther 5th. 
Heard a very strange superstition to-day con- 
nected with the manufacture of vermicelli in the 
city of iN'ankin. For some reason Nankin is sup- 
posed to be a very unstable city, after the fashion 
of a boat, — a boat's sails being up makes it more 
easily upset by the wind. The vermicelli in process 
of manufacture is hung up to dry, and thus resem- 
bles sheets or sails. This is apt to bring about a 
sinking or upsetting of the city. So the officials 
have a ruling prohibiting the making of vermicelli 
within the walls. Therefore it is made, and has 
been for centuries, across the river. Near the city 
is a cave in which is a stone boat chained to the 
cave wall by a huge iron chain, and so long as this 
chain remains unbroken it is dangerous to make 
vermicelli in the city. In the boat lives a great 
snake which prevents any one from breaking the 




Entrance to Ming Tombs at Mankin, China 




Chinese Arch 



In and About Nankin 37 

chain, or removing the spell. Eeoently, however, 
some few Chinamen have been venturesome enough 
to risk disaster, and are making the article within 
the city, though perhaps without the knowledge of 
the officials. So we may look for some terrible 
calamity ! The fact that such superstitions are 
dying out is a favorable sign, and indicates the 
approach of the time when China will throw off 
the shackles of superstition and ignorance. God 
speed the day when she shall be a Christian na- 
tion! 

November 30th. 

" Johnny " has arrived and soon came around to 
see me ; he is a smiling, happy Chinaman, and I am 
sure will take good care of me on my Western 
trip. 

Went with some of the older missionaries on an 
itinerating trip, and while our boat was anchored, 
we got out for a walk and heard most pitiful cry- 
ing, and we proceeded to^find the cause of the dis- 
turbance, which proved to be an opium suicide. A 
man had swallowed one-half dram of opium, and 
he was fast becoming unconscious. We went in 
and started to work. Gave the fellow a dose of 
apo-morphine and strychnine, and waited results. 
The man was unconscious now, but we began the 
fight against death, resolved to cheat him of his 
victim, even if only for a short time. With a wet 
towel we slapped his back until he began to be 
aroused, and soon he began to vomit. However 



38 A Message from Batang 

the fight was not yet over. Enough had been ab- 
sorbed to cause death, so we began walking him up 
and down the floor, and jerking him about. It 
was hard work, but after a time he was awakened 
enough to say, " Oh, I'm so sick," and I didn't 
doubt it a bit ; apo-morphine has a habit of making 
one sick. When the old mother and wife saw that 
life was coming back, they came and fell at my 
feet, their eyes full of tears, and profuse thanks on 
their lips. We lifted them up and went on with 
the battle, but I can never forget the gratitude of 
those poor people. I felt extremely thankful for 
this opportunity to do a Uttle service for the Mas- 
ter. 

December 15th. 
" Johnny " paid a visit, anxious to know when 
we can leave. I am as anxious as he is, but can't 
hurry as my freight has not yet arrived from 
Shanghai. 

December '25th. 
Such a beautiful day outside, and a good day to 
be happy. I spent the morning quietly thinking of 
the Christmases past, and trying to remember 
them. I remember the place and time of each one, 
even '86, '87, '88 and '89, which were spent in Ten- 
nessee as a little child remembers them, and thus in 
God's mercy I have had many pleasant days spent 
in many places, and to-day I am under a Chinese 
sky, 10,000 miles away from kindred and the home 



In and About Nankin 39 

ties, but as near God as never before, and one year 
nearer my heavenly home than ever before. 

December 31st. 
The last day in the old year. The sun has set 
the last time for me this year. Alone I sit in my 
room to-night, thinking of the past year, its joys 
and sorrows. I have been on my highest mountain 
peaks, and in the deepest shadows of my life, but 
the mountain peaks are far greater in number than 
the shadows. There have been sorrows, such as I 
hope I shall never see again, and there have been op- 
portunities I fear I shall never see again. I bow 
my head to the dying year, and bid it a final fare- 
well ; it will always stand out as one of the great- 
est for me. I thank the heavenly Father for His 
love and care, and for all the year has brought me, 
and pray that it has not been lived in vain. 

January 1, 1909. 
Greeting to the New Year! So another mile- 
post has been reached. I find myself starting a 
new year indeed, new scenes, new people, new lan- 
guage, at least to me it is all new, yet " old as the 
hills." 

February 18th. 

One afternoon I spent a pleasant time climbing 

the three highest peaks of Purple Mountain. The 

highest rises 1,450 feet above the city of Nankin. 

The mountain has much legendary and historic in- 



40 A Message from Batang 

terest, and is mucli loved by the Chinese. It was 
occupied by the rebel troops during the Taiping 
Eebellion, and later by the Imperial troops. On 
one of the peaks, an old fort in ruins is found, and 
a marvellous system of breastworks and fortifica- 
tions, extending for miles out into the surrounding 
country, connecting many smaller hills. A splen- 
did bird's-eye view is obtained from the top, show- 
ing the situation to have been well-nigh impreg- 
nable. 

Many dozens of smaller villages and hamlets are 
to be seen in the valleys, while the thousands of 
graves stand out prominently. Many of the pri- 
vate cemeteries being interestingly laid out, and 
approached by avenues of stone men, horses, camels, 
turtles of immense size, all reminding you of a past 
that must have been gorgeous with its oriental 
splendor in the centuries that are gone. In the 
evening a telegram came saying my freight was 
coming, being five months on the way. Every- 
thing arrived in good shape, so Johnny and I got 
busy packing. Johnny is a brick, and is giving me 
splendid assistance in getting things ready. Sent a 
telegram to Batang, stating we would start the 
20th. 

Fehruary Wth. 

In the cold gray of the dawn I arose, folded up 

my bed and got ready to travel. Soon the boat 

was ready to leave, and as it moved slowly away I 

waved a last farewell to my friends, and saw the 



In and About Nankin 41 

city wall with its great gates and Purple Mountain 
in the distance growing dim. I knew the long 
four months' journey into a far country had begun 
in earnest. This then was no longer anticipation 
but realization. It is really hard to realize I am 
off for such a journey, but I am indeed happy, and 
very grateful to God for this day. Taking a last 
glance at the familiar, templed hills that somehow 
had grown strangely dear to me, I went to my 
cabin, and turning to Exodus xxxiii. 15 read, "If 
Thy presence go not with me, carry us not up 
hence." Then to Proverbs iii. 6 and read, "Ac- 
knowledge the Lord in all thy ways ; He will direct 
thy paths." Then my favorite Psalm cxxi., and 
then the ninety-first which had only last night 
been sent as a parting message. Then on my 
knees I asked the Father to lead and direct my 
footsteps, and so I place my hand in His for Him 
to lead me where He wishes, remembering my 
Saviour's promise, " Lo, I am with you always." 



up the Yangtse 

March 3d. 

IcHANG at last! One thousand miles up the 
Yangste ! 

March 5th. 

As my house-boat went alongside the wharf this 
morning, I went down and had my things put on 
board, and stored away in the hold where they will 
have a chance to get wet. The nights here are in- 
teresting. There is a group of Chinese huts just 
below my rooms in the city, and they make a lot of 
noise with drums and gongs all night to keep the 
devils off, I suppose ; any self-respecting devil 
would keep away from such noise, so I sleep with 
my window open without fear. 

March 7th. 
This is the day for the "March Offering" for 
foreign missions at home, and I am hoping and 
praying that it may be a good day with them. 

March 9th. 
At 4 : 30 p. M. we moved apart from the other 
boats, and started slowly up stream. The long river 
journey had begun at last. I must confess I felt 
more like I was starting on a long journey into a " far 
country " than I had before. While I didn't feel 

42 



Up the Yangtse 43 

like a " goner " I do have a kind of " gone " feel- 
ing. My cook prepared me a good supper, and I 
ate to my full capacity. We are now anchored up 
the river a few li above Ichang. The two 
younger sons of the captain are about as dirty 
specimens of kidhood as I have ever seen. They 
have taken a special liking to me. I gave one a 
piece of candy, and since then I have been deluged 
with Chinese candy, and they get around me while 
I read and write, rub against me until I'm going to 
have to make a demonstration in self-defense, I 
fear. There are two now pushing their dirty 
noses in my face, and rubbing dirt off on my bed 
and clothes. 

Ma/rch 11th. 
The first thing to do to-day was to go up a small 
rapid, at least Johnny said it was small, but as it 
was my first, it looked like a pretty big one. I 
stayed on board, however, and enjoyed it hugely. 
The boat tossed about like an egg-shell over the 
rapids and waves, but slowly and surely we crept 
up inch by inch until we were safely over. There 
were wrecks of several boats lying about, and I can 
hear the roar of the large rapids through which we 
are to pass to-morrow. It is the terror of all going 
up and coming down, and many boats get smashed 
to pieces here. But I do not fear the result, for 
the boat is in the hands of a Higher Power than 
the captain's, and if He wants to lead me safely 
through He can do so, and I know that He knows 



44 A Message from Batang 

all, and will not let anything happen that is not for 
the best. Good-night — " Be Thou with me 
always." 

March mh. 

By one o'clock our boat had begun to get ready 
to go, and I determined to stay on board while we 
ascended the rapids, as I knew I could get an idea 
of them to be obtained in no better way, and I 
rather enjoy an element of danger. We were ly- 
ing in the edge of a great whirlpool, which drove 
our boats up towards the rapids with great force. 
The boats tossed and strained, and the bamboo 
cables cracked as if they would snap to pieces. 
The current from above was forcing the boat ahead 
of me down, and the whirlpool was driving mine 
up stream. That boat was older than mine, and 
somewhat rotten and in a few minutes I saw we 
were in danger of colliding. Two of the large 
cross-beams hooked together like the hubs of pass- 
ing wagons, and in a moment the one on his boat 
cracked and broke like a match, splintering the side 
very much. So Johnny and I, to prevent further 
damage, took our stand at the windows, and with 
our hands pushed "heroically. That we helped 
some there is no doubt, but for some time the boat 
was in great danger. 

Our 'turn came next to ascend the rapid. "We 
were tossing about like a chip, and the roar of the 
waters was deafening. It was almost impossible to 
stand, and everything that could fall off of any- 



Up the Yangtse 45 

thing had been taken clown and placed on the floor 
or bed. There could be no doubt that the " Sintan " 
was a terror. As I looked at the roaring, dashing, 
settling torrent, I knew that a boat uncontrolled 
could not live in it, much less a man. The waves 
were four or five feet high. The water at this 
point flows at the rate of fourteen or fifteen 
knots an hour. It is almost a waterfall. The 
descent is so great for a few feet, that standing 
as I did almost on a level with the water I could 
see how much higher it was above. For a short 
distance the fall must have been ten feet in one 
hundred yards ; a very great fall indeed. Four 
huge bamboo cables were fastened to our boat, 
and about one hundred coolies were pulling. 
Following them inch by inch we advanced, our 
progress being almost imperceptible. In ten or 
fifteen minutes we had scarcely advanced so many 
feet. The men pulling strained every nerve and 
muscle, while those on board used the sweep 
and rudder with marvellous dexterity, keeping the 
boat off the rocks. The sensation one gets from 
such an ascent as this for the first time is cer- 
tainly a new one. I am not a stranger to artifi- 
cial thrills such as looping the loop, shooting the 
shoots, the Ferris wheel, etc., but none of them of- 
fers the sensation one gets here. Take the suspense 
thrill of the " Loop the loop " when you are sitting 
head downward and prolong it for twenty or thirty 
minutes, and you get some idea of what this is like. 
All is fairly quiet to-night, except the roaring of 



46 A Message from Batang 

the rapids we have just passed. The heavenly 
Father has protected me through another day of 
danger, and to Him I give thanks and praise. 

March 17th. 

St. Patrick's day. Well, I suppose at this very 
minute the people at home are gathering on the 
street for the parade, St. Patrick's day is an 
innovation the Chinese have not yet adopted. We 
passed through the wind-box " gorge " early this 
morning, while it was scarcely light, but I got a 
fine glimpse of its magnificence. About the only 
narrow escape I had to-day was the breaking of a 
window in my face by a bamboo pole, which got 
away from a boatman and sprang back and broke 
the glass. 

March 19th. 

To-night we are anchored within the influence of 
the " New Dragon Kapid." The motion of the boat 
is something more than usual, and the roar of the 
rapid is very distinct. This is a new rapid, caused 
by the sliding in of a part of a hill a few years ago. 
A freighting company wanted to blast it out and 
clean the river, but the Chinese would not consent, 
saying that if the spirits wanted the rocks to fall 
in the river, it would displease them to have them 
removed. 

March 27th. 

In trying to cross the stream, the swift current 
threw us against a bank with considerable force, and 
it looked as if we would be upset, but it was a 



Up the Yangtse 47 

sandy bank, and we only got a little shaking. All 
seemed to be going well, it was just dark, the men 
were looking for a place to stop, when suddenly 
we struck a rock and stuck fast. The men got out 
and began to try to get the boat off. It began to 
move after a bit, when all at once there was a 
crash and a sound of inrushing water. Pande- 
monium broke loose. Well, there was something 
doing for the next several minutes. Partitions 
were torn down, tables, chairs and boxes hustled 
out of the way. Things hurriedly taken out of 
the apartment where the leak was ; some of the 
men carried things out on the front deck while 
others frantically dipped out the water, and sought 
the hole. Eags, cotton, etc., were brought, and 
the aperture plugged, the boat was pulled to the 
shore and propped up to keep it from upsetting if 
it sank. We were told to get our things and get 
off. I felt about the least excited of any, and 
quietly got some of my most valuable things to- 
gether where they could be easily secured, and 
waited for developments. It was eleven o'clock 
before they ceased working at the boat. Things 
were piled around in a reckless manner, and the 
ends of the room all open to the night. However 
it gradually became quiet, and we breathed nor- 
mally again. So I am thankful to the heavenly 
Father for His care. To Him be all the praise, 
honor and glory for all good things, and thanks to 
the Master for His promise, " Lo, I am with you 
always." 



48 A Message from Batang 

March ^8th. 

Another boat of missionaries flying the English 
flag, going up river at the same time, was in view 
to-day, and it was not an unwelcome sight. It is 
good to see the two boats, one flying the Stars 
and Stripes and the other the Union Jack, going up 
the Yangtse together on the mission of conquest — 
" China for Christ." 

April 1st. 

April Fool's Day. I think the only thing I was 
fooled in to-day was when we ran into a rock with- 
out breaking a hole in the boat. The Chinese be- 
lieve the river to be infested with devils, and I am 
almost inclined to think there is something in it. 
At any rate it seems to be specially prepared by 
the devil himself with a view to keeping God's 
messengers out of his stronghold. But since he 
cannot prevent the Saviour fulfilling His promise 
of being with us always, he cannot prevent us 
from entering even though he bring all these 
forces to bear against us. 

April 3d. 

It was about dusk when we tied up at the Tai- 
ping gate of Chungking with everything safe, sound 
and dry for this part of the journey. Eeceived 
three letters from Batang saying all was quiet 
along the border. I feel like singing praises for 
the protection thus far. 

April Ifih. 

This has been a day to be remembered, not so 
much for any striking incident, but for the holiness 



Up the Yangtse 49 

of the day in contrast to the darkness through 
which we have been passing. The most delightful 
thing was the Christian fellowship. I had scarcely 
realized the weight which the night of heathenism 
had fastened to my heart until I came once more 
into touch with His followers, and realized the 
contrast. That there is a devil in China is a fact 
that to my mind needs no proof. The day has 
strengthened and helped me much, for which I give 
thanks unto the Giver of all good and perfect gifts. 

April 6th. 
Johnny and I crossed the river this morning, 
and went to work repacking the medicines for 
Batang. Found them in a terrible condition, bot- 
tles broken, medicine spilled and instruments rusted, 
but repacked them as best we could. 

April 7th. 
Made an early start by opening a lot of boxes 
and found a lot of blisters on my hands as the re- 
sult. I got busy repacking again, and " Trying to 
hustle the East " — all my urging seems to have lit- 
tle effect on the Chinese carpenters and tinsmiths 
whom I had at work. Too busy and dirty to eat I 
worked away. The slow tinners were terribly ex- 
asperating, and when I wasn't at work I paced the 
floor and pulled my hair. Finally about five 
o'clock the last case was packed, and I sent them 
all across the river to the boat. So a hustling day 
was over, and a good deal accomplished towards 
getting away. 



Yl 

On Towards Batang 

April 9th. 
"Wheist I awoke this morning we were already 
under way, and slowly leaving Clmngking behind 
us as we had left Ichang, one month ago to-day. 
About ten o'clock we reached the customs barrier, 
got my papers signed without delay, and am O. K. 
for Batang now. 

April 11th. 
Easter Sunday, so I've been told, for I'm sure I 
don't know whether it is or not. 

Apinl llfth. 
The captain got so mad at the trackers to-day 
that he came near having a fit. He let off some of 
his fury by throwing a tub of cooked rice into the 
river, but nothing serious happened. The twilight 
period is delightful now. It is unusually long after 
the sun disappears behind the hills before darkness 
falls. Then I enjoy sitting out on the front of the 
boat and inhaling the fragrance from the opening 
leaves and buds of the many trees which cluster 
about the cliffs and rocky places on the hills. The 
many colors suggest autumn rather than spring. 
The farmhouses in the distance, nestling among the 

50 



On Towards Batang 51 

trees, look quite homelike, and I can almost imagine 
myself back in the homeland again, and feel like 
listening for the tinkle of the cow-bell, as of old. 
A few mosquitoes have been buzzing about for the 
last few nights but they seem not to have seen a 
white man before, and scarcely know how to treat 
me. I can't say that I care to cultivate their ac- 
quaintance too much. 

April 19th. 
"We were progressing fairly well this morning 
when we ran aground, and stuck hard and fast on 
a long, flat stretch of sand and mud. The boatmen 
fi.rst tried to get the boat off with poles; that 
wouldn't work, so a number of the traders were 
called in and helped push and shove. In about 
fifty minutes we were off and proceeded on our 
way. One of the boatmen feU overboard, back- 
wards, just as we were crossing a small rapid, but 
was quickly rescued by another. He was so badly 
scared that I couldn't keep from laughing, and 
haven't got through yet. I have seen several fel- 
lows fall in the river and get pulled out, and every 
one seems so badly frightened that he doesn't know 
who he is. 

April Wth. 
It is two months ago last night since I left Nan- 
kin to begin this trip. And two months ago just 
at daybreak saw the old city walls grow dim in the 
distance. I have been following the windings of 



52 A Message from Batang 

the Yangtse ever since, and am now about 1,800 
miles up the great river. One old fellow has been 
too sick to talk for a couple of days, so he has been 
lying about grunting. I have diagnosed his case as 
malaria, and am loading him up with quinine, in 
the hope that I may make a demonstration of the 
power of foreign medicine. 

April '21st. 
After dressing this morning I opened the door and 
found my patient sitting up, picking off lice, and I 
knew without asking that he was better. This is the 
first time I have met with such a symptom, but I soon 
learned its value. After we had anchored for the 
night a number of suspicious, disreputable-looking 
fellows came down, and inquired rather carefully 
about us. The captain decided they were planning 
to rob us, and were getting the lay of the land. 
So he came to Johnny and implored that I fire off 
my guns, and let them know we had foreign fire- 
arms. So I got out my revolver and Winchester, 
and fired a few shots from each into the water, then 
reloaded and continued reading the story of the 
tragic ending of Mary Queen of Scots. Everything 
is quiet yet, and it is 11 p. m., and dark as a " stack 
of black cats." Just at this moment a sudden 
noise brought Johnny and the cook to their feet in 
eager expectancy, but it proved a false alarm. As 
for me I shall retire as usual, and " lay me down 
in peace to sleep." The Lord forgets not His 
promises. 



On Towards Batang 53 

Almost before I realized it we were in sight of 
Sui Fu. I made ready to go ashore as soon as possi- 
ble, and it was not long until we turned up the 
Min River, and left the bosom of the Yangste which 
had carried us so long and so far. It was with 
just a little bit of regret that I said good-bye to the 
great river. For nearly 2,000 miles I have trav- 
ersed its length amidst dangers, and over its smooth 
surfaces when it was as quiet as our own Missis- 
sippi at its best. Though many times it has been 
like a roaring lion seeking to devour us, yet it has 
been my friend in the end, and it is the last un- 
broken tie that binds me with the homeland, for it 
flows direct to the great ocean that kisses the sands 
of loved America, many thousands of miles away. 

A^pril '2Jith. 
"We started up a small rapid to-day, and I thought 
the size of the rope looked rather tiny, so T was not 
in the least surprised when just as we were about 
through to smooth water it parted, and we drifted 
back even further than we had come the day be- 
fore. It was enough to make a fellow feel like 
swearing, but I compromised by going to bed and 
remaining an hour trying to forget I was in a 
hurry. This travelling on the Yangste (but we 
are on the Min now) may be hard on the nerves, 
but it is decidedly harder on a fellow's imagina- 
tion. He has to imagine all sorts of things. That 
he is not in a hurry at all, that he doesn't care if 



54 A Message from Batang . 

he does lose a day or two. He must imagine he 
is travelling at a high rate of speed, when he may 
take sight on some stone or tree on the bank and 
find half an hour later that he has moved six feet 
and seven inches up stream (if he is so fortunate 
as not to have drifted back a mile or so). He 
must imagine the captain is doing his level best 
to hurry on, and all delays and accidents are una- 
voidable. He must imagine that he has an unlim- 
ited supply of patience, and that he doesn't care a 
rap whether he gets to the end of his journey this 
year or next. All this is quite a strain, and unless 
his imagination is decidedly well developed, he is 
apt to have trouble and suffer from necrosis of the 
funny bone before he has finished his travels. 
Well, Flanigan wired : " Off agin, on agin, gone 
agin ; " we make another start with a new rope, 
and in an hour or so are safe above the rapid. It 
is evening, and we are tied up with a lot of other 
boats at the foot of a big cliff and aU is quiet at 
10 P. M. 

April 25th. 
This morning one of the captain's children 
brought me a bunch of wild roses. They were 
rich with perfume, and only simple pink blossoms, 
but I cannot remember when flowers seemed so 
sweet. I placed them on my table, where they 
have shed fragrance and sweet memories all day. 
Little did the poor little dirty heathen child think 
how much they were prized by me. I have put in 



On Towards Batang ^^ 

the day reading the entire book of Acts and mak- 
ing an outline especially of Paul's travels. I 
found it a splendid thing to do, and it has shown 
up the brave old missionary in a clearer light than 
I have ever seen before, and I admired more than 
ever the man who braved the dangers unflinch- 
ingly for the sake of the Master, " whose he was 
and whom he served." My prayer is that I may 
imbibe more of the spirit of this grand apostle, 
and prove as steadfast and loyal as he did, even 
though I cannot do the great work that he accom- 
plished. 

April 'Beth. 
This evening the captain halted, saying he was 
unable to go beyond a rapid just above until morn- 
ing, so I went out to look about, as it seemed to 
be a picturesque spot. It is just in the bend of the 
river and the boat has been drawn up amidst 
and against some huge boulders, and made fast 
with great bamboo cables. Just above us towers 
a perpendicular cliff of a brick-red sandstone, 
hundreds of feet in height. On its top and round 
about are a number of tall slender pines, already 
being trimmed for masts for Chinese boats. A 
few grass-covered huts are built at the foot of the 
cliff, while a short distance up the river is a heathen 
temple, with its queer roof and peculiar archi- 
tecture. A few scattered patches of wheat, peas, 
etc., finish this side of the picture. Across the 
river in the distance is a range of rugged peaked 



56 A Message from Batang 

mountains which have been in sight for two or 
three days. I watched the twilight settle down, 
and wished it were possible for me to photograph 
the scene as it was, in all its varying colors, from 
the delicate tint of a few vnld roses, to the sombre 
colors of the great red cliff and its shadows. 

April 28th. 

About noon we saw some artificial caves cut in 
the face of the cliff. The openings were set back 
under a kind of stone portico and decorated with 
crude carvings. I was told they were the dwell- 
ing places of a wild aboriginal race that existed 
many years ago. How long ago, and aU the 
strange story of these vanished people, no one can 
tell. To-day I caught sight of a large saddle- 
backed mountain and with my glasses saw large 
drifts of snow lying in the most sheltered parts of 
it. Upon inquiring I was told that it was Omei 
Shan, one of China's famous mountains made so 
by its many Buddhist temples, and the pilgrim- 
ages made by thousands of devout Buddhists every 
year. 

I wonder if this is really the last night on the 
river? The captain is counting on getting to 
Kiating to-morrow afternoon. So if we do I am 
enjoying the last quiet night on the house-boat. 
As we travelled along to-day we passed a big cliff 
with a hole of peculiar, natural formation in it. 
I noticed the men who were now rowing had 
brought a lot of small stones, and as we neared 



On Towards Batang 57 

the hole began to try to throw their rocks into it. 
It was nearly full of similar stones, and the sides 
of the cliff all beaten up by the many stones that 
had missed their intended destination. My curi- 
osity was aroused, and inquiry brought out the 
superstition that if a man succeeds in landing a 
stone in the hole, his prayer for a son will be 
granted. If he fails his prayer remains unan- 
swered. 

April 30th. 
As we neared Kiating one striking thing I 
saw was a giant Buddha cut in the soM stone. 
The face of a cliff had been cut with the likeness 
of a Buddha, now with trees for its hair and shrubs 
for eyebrows. It is rather a remarkable piece of 
work, and is quite commanding and evidently very, 
very old. This is my first night to be spent in a 
house for nearly two months, but somehow it seems 
natural again. So this part of the trip has been 
made safely, and I am thankful for the many bless- 
ings and manifestations of God's love to me on this 
part of the long journey. 

May 3d. 
Started from here in a three-bearer chair while 
Johnny and the cook had a two-bearer each. The 
men kept up a pretty good pace, and rapidly cov- 
ered the ground. I soon got used to the motion of 
the chair, and amused myself by looking around to 
see what was going on. I found plenty to interest 



58 A Message from Batang 

me. First the rice fields. They were in a variety 
of stages, some were being plowed by men and the 
water buifalo, both wading through deep, muddy 
water. Others were setting out the rice in bunches 
a few inches apart. Some were pumping water 
into the fields from irrigation ditches, using a pecul- 
iar endless-chain pump, only paddles instead of 
cups were used. Besides the rice crops I saw corn, 
wheat, oats, peas and beans, and tea. After dinner 
we jogged along the " big road " which was about 
two feet wide, paved with large slabs of soft stone, 
and led in and out around and between the fields, 
often on top of a small ridge, with a flooded rice 
field on either side, where a misstep might have 
meant disaster. We passed a number of old, arti- 
ficial caves cut in the cliffs, and I went in to ex- 
amine some of them. There was a large room 
high enough in which to stand upright, while at 
either side were benches hewn out of the walls a 
few feet from the ground, used evidently for beds, 
while smaller recesses were for the reception of 
small articles, I suppose. The caves were damp 
and dark and gave one an uncanny feeling. They 
gave but little trace of being inhabited at present, 
except occasionally by coolies as a refuge in time of 
a storm. In one I saw a few broken pieces of pot- 
tery, and an ulna and a few vertebrae. Perhaps 
these places were the first dwellings of the men 
who were ancestors to the present Tibetans, and as 
the Chinese civilization pushed them farther and 
farther westward, they finally died out and disap- 



On Towards Batang 59 

peared altogether in this part of the country, leav- 
ing only those caves their only homes. 

May Ji-th. 

At noon we stopped at an inn, which was prac- 
tically the same as the street, and had dinner. A 
crowd of gaping, staring Chinese stood about watch- 
ing the " foreign devil " eat, tearing his food with 
" knives and forks." A fellow soon gets to be the 
centre of attraction out here. He is followed about 
the street as if he were a whole circus parade, and 
they stare at him as if he were a three-headed calf, a 
man-eating gorilla, or some other freak. As usual 
there are many graves with peculiar stones. There 
have been many arches, temples and shrines all now 
in a state of rapid deterioration. 

About 8 p. M. it began to drizzle. The chair 
men put on their umbrella-like hats, and also fast- 
ened a small metal shoe to their straw sandals, not 
unlike a small donkey's shoe, to prevent slipping on 
the wet stones. Stopped at a Chinese inn. I was 
given the best room, and found it better than out 
in the rain. It is back at the end of the house, 
overhanging the river which at present flows a 
few feet away. It is perhaps twelve feet square. 
Two windows, or rather two sections of the wall, 
open out on the river, giving plenty of much needed 
air, for when I came in I could scarcely see for the 
smoke which came from the kitchen fire just in 
front. The furniture consists of four verminous 
beds, covered with straw or matting, a bench, and 



6o A Message from Batang 

a table of boards in one corner. The floor is dirty, 
the walls black with smoke. Finding a flight of 
stairs running down beneath my room, I went 
down to investigate what might be below me. I 
found one of those inevitable foul smelling pits of 
human refuse. It is three feet by six feet and sev- 
eral feet deep, filled with an abominable rotten 
mess which is literally alive with maggots, and 
gives an odor which is suggestive of anything but 
balmy breezes and Arabian perfumes. The cook 
prepared a good supper for me, which I ate on a 
table in the next room, a few feet away from a 
urinal, which was in a near-by corner, and in use 
while I ate. ITevertheless I enjoyed my supper 
very much. My cot is opened up on the top of 
one of those filthy beds, and I will trust that 
the bugs do not climb the legs, and get to me to- 
night. 

May 5th. 
After a day's travel of climbing my first hills 
and through valleys of bamboo, crossing and re- 
crossing rivers, it was rapidly getting dark, and I had 
no idea where we were when we stopped at a little 
bunch of houses ; the cook said we were at Yachow. 
I was surprised indeed. However I told him to 
find a foreigner, and pretty soon I found myself in 
front of a large foreign building, and upon knock- 
ing, was met by the doctor in charge, who gave me 
a hearty welcome, and ushered me in, saying I was 
to stay there. A nice supper was prepared, which 



On Towards Batang 6i 

I heartily enjoyed, as well as the company of the 
doctor and his wife. 

May 6th. 
As it was still a few days before my freight 
could come from Kiating by raft, we had to do 
something to help pass the time, so a trip to the 
country was planned. We started for a city forty 
miles away on foot. It rained, and we got rather 
wet, but our goods finally came in good condition, 
and we made ourselves at home in a foreign preach- 
ing place, and were comfortable, and could write 
and pass the time quietly until ready to return. 

Mm/ 7th. 
Spent part of the morning writing, and then 
went out to look around the city. One of the first 
things we ran across was a Chinese theatre. The 
stage as usual faced the temple, and the audience 
stood in the open court. The scenes or play repre- 
sented some historical event in ancient times. The 
costumes were sometimes quite gorgeous, and 
always exceedingly grotesque. Some of the acting 
was quite good. There were comedians, tragedians 
and others of various parts and talents. These 
plays often last for days. There was quite a crowd, 
and we stood for some time watching a fellow near 
us scratching off smallpox scabs, but it didn't seem 
to disturb any one. One counter attraction was a 
pickpocket being " spanked " on the hands with a 
rough board. Later we saw a number of fellows 
being punished. Some were fastened up in cages, 



62 A Message from Batang 

with their necks between great planks. Others 
had a great board about two feet square fastened 
around their necks, so that it was impossible to get 
the hands to the face, or lie down. 

May 10th. 
Keturned to Yachow yesterday. This morn- 
ing we spent the time about the hospital, read- 
ing and writing. The rafts having not yet come, 
there was little that we could do towards getting 
on with our journey. Spent the evening talking 
until about 10 p. m. A pleasant, quiet homelike 
day. 

May nth. 
My birthday. However I said nothing about it 
to any one, so passed the day without special demon- 
stration. In the afternoon several of us visited a 
place where the tea is compressed into a kind of 
brick for shipping to Tibet. The tea leaves are 
first steamed, then packed into a mold and turned 
out on a long flattened cylinder weighing about 
eighteen catties. These are wrapped in bamboo 
matting. The tea coolies sometimes carry as many 
as four of these bales over the mountains to 
Ta chien lu. The tea is of poor quality to begin 
with, and mixed with a lot of sticks and leaves. 
The water used is most filthy looking. So the 
chances are that the tea must contain millions of 
germs. In the evening met Dr. Laufer of the 
Field Institute, Chicago. He is bound for Tibet in 
the interests of anthropology and ethnology. 



On Towards Batang 63 

May 15th. 
My goods arrived this evening, all dry and 
in good condition. Had five thousand pounds in 
all. Arrangements were made to get away early 
on Monday. So by night we had things pretty 
well under way for our start on the morrow. 

May 16th. 
About noon a man came in saying he wanted 
me to go and see a girl that had taken opium. We 
gave her the usual vigorous treatment of apo- 
morphine and strong tea, and walking her about, 
and with a small electric battery succeeded admi- 
rably in keeping her awake. By 3 p. m. we were 
able to leave her and go home to dinner. When 
we returned she was about straightened out. 



VII 
Overland Towards the Tibetan Border 

May 17th. 
We were up by daybreak this morning, and 
began to get ready to get away. After breakfast 
we took leave of our kind hostess, and the other 
friends in Yachow. They had treated us most de- 
lightfully, and we enjoyed our week with them to 
the utmost. The most of my freight was left to 
follow by coolies later, while I took only a few of 
the most necessary things. I walked a good deal. 
"We saw coolies carrying a lot of medicines, among 
which was a splendid quality of licorice. "We met 
three French travellers, and stopped to talk with 
them. Met load after load of the wax insect which 
is carried by coolies from a point about twenty days 
from here. The insect is put on the mulberry tree, 
where they excrete or secrete a iine quality of white 
wax. Another most interesting thing was some big 
wooden slabs being carried by men and horses. 
They are called " scented boards " by the Chinese. 
The odor is very pleasant. They are mined from 
the earth like coal. They are practically inde- 
structible, being a kind of lignite now, and are very 
expensive, and used for coffins. Stopped in a very 
good inn, but it is late and we are sleepy. "Will stop 
for the day. 

64 



Overland Towards the Tibetan Border 65 

May 18th. 
We passed a mountain almost covered with tea 
shrubs to-day. This is quite a tea centre. The hill- 
sides are steep, but mostly cultivated. We crossed 
a bridge built of huge stone slabs, the largest I have 
ever seen anywhere. How they were placed across 
the stream is about as much of a problem as how 
the stones for the pyramids of Egjrpt were put in 
place. The scenery was most interesting, and I 
delighted in it. 

Ma/y 19th. 
It is three months to-night since leaving Nankin 
on this westward journey, and the end is not yet. 
This morning the road began at once to ascend 
into the mountains. "We followed the course of a 
small roaring torrent ; most of the way it was a 
succession of cataracts, just enough to keep the 
stream milk white most of the time. "We had a 
long climb of twenty or thirty li to the top of the 
pass, ascending about 6,000 feet in this distance. 
The view was most glorious as we ascended until 
near the top. The ravines and mountainsides 
were covered with a jungle so dense that it would 
have been impossible to get through without cutting 
a path. Many plants were familiar, but most were 
new to me. Bamboo predominated, at first a few 
feet high, but as we ascended it grew smaller and 
scrubbier until it was little more than coarse grass. 
Yines, ferns, moss, weeds, flowers and shrubs 
covered the ground, until in the distance the 



66 A Message from Batang 

mountains seemed covered with green velvet. 
There were dozens of new and beautiful flowers on 
all sides, gradually diminishing as we climbed 
higher. There were many large trees lower down, 
but as we neared the top they grew shabby and 
gnarled. About half-way up cultivation ceases. 
The highest crop is corn, small and yellow. Many 
trees had the most beautiful foliage I have ever 
seen. The leaves were as vari-colored as in autumn 
at home, except all the colors were found on one 
tree. There were reds, greens, yellows, and some 
almost black, with all shades between. This made 
a beautiful picture indeed. 

It was a perfect day, almost ideal for crossing a 
pass, and we could see clear to the tops of the 
mountains high above us. It was all so magnifi- 
cent, I could have shouted for pleasure at the view. 
As we journeyed upward we passed many poor 
coolies with great loads of tea, coal, salt, etc., some 
loads weighing two hundred or three hundred 
pounds. As we got higher it grew colder until we 
were quite cold. Some snow and ice were near us, 
but none on the pass. It was the highest I had 
ever been, and I wondered if I would be affected 
by the altitude of 9,600 feet. But although I 
walked I felt no more inconvenience than the same 
exertion would produce at a lower level. Perhaps 
not so much, since the mountain air was in a way 
stimulating to me. We reached the top about 1 : 30 
p. M., and had a wonderful view of range after 
range of mountains on both sides. Some must 



Overland Towards the Tibetan Border 67 

have been 14,000 to 15,000 feet high, and had some 
snow on them. We had a hearty meal of " oil tea " 
at a little rest house. The stuff is a kind of oily 
mess made of corn-meal, etc. Hogs were drinking 
swill in the rooms ; some were stretched under the 
table asleep. Dogs, chickens and cats ran about 
under our feet, eating and getting in our way. 
But by this time I have gotten used to such things, 
so that they do not bother me in the least, and I 
eat with as much relish as ever. "We rapidly 
descended until we reached the city about 4 p. m. 
It is quite cool and pleasant and we should sleep 
well. 

May Wih. 
We left the city and crossed a deep ravine, and 
then up a steep mountainside, though not more 
than Y,500 or 8,000 feet. The road was not so 
good as yesterday, being narrow and rough. The 
most striking feature of the country to-day was the 
bareness of the mountains. They were almost void 
of -vegetation. The soil was a very poor, brown, 
rocky soil. The mountainsides were worn with 
great ravines, so as to almost ruin them for cultiva- 
tion. This seems to be a peculiarly dry belt, in 
which there is little rainfall except at certain 
seasons of the year, and then it pours in such 
quantities as to wash mountains and roads terribly. 
The mountains to-day have been hidden largely by 
clouds and fogs, so that we could see but few high 
ones. Some, however, appear quite stern and for- 
bidding. 



68 A Message from Batang 

May ^Ist. 
The morning dawned with a clear sky, only a few 
banks of clouds hovering over the tops of the 
mountains. We started out on foot, and followed 
up alongside a magnificent gorge a thousand feet 
deep in many places. The scenery was very 
picturesque. Vegetation became more in evidence 
as we advanced into a damper belt. The air was 
clear, and as we went up the mountainside the view 
grew more and more beautiful. Houses showed a 
different style of architecture. In one place we 
saw the ruins of Tibetan buildings. We stopped 
for dinner at a dirty inn, where we had some 
coarse corn cakes and eggs. This ascent was more 
difficult to me than the other, the road being very 
rough, and quite steep, but the actual climb is only 
about 3,000 feet. About 2 : 30 p. m. we reached 
the top, which is about 9,500 feet in height. The 
road almost at once began to descend. Here we 
saw a Tibetan idol, and a proclamation in Tibetan. 
This spot has been, and is still supposed to be the 
dividing line of China proper, and the Tributary 
Country of the Tusas or kings of Tibet. The view 
from this pass was most glorious. The long valley 
lay behind us, between ranges of mountains, 10,000 
to 11,000 feet high, their tops hidden in the clouds. 
About sundown we went outside the little inn, and 
saw that the clouds had lifted from the range, 
displaying them, more beautiful than ever with their 
covering of eternal snow. Beyond this range we 
could see the top of another peak, which is said to 



Overland Towards the Tibetan Border 69 

be about 26,000 feet. It was a sight new and 
beautiful to me, and I drank in the beauty of the 
scene quite eagerly. 

May 2M. 

The men had us up by daylight this morning, 
and once more we were on our way. The big 
snow mountains looked very beautiful in the morn- 
ing sunlight, with the wreaths of white clouds 
about their summits. We descended into a long 
deep valley, and presently struck the Tong Kiver, 
which we followed the rest of the day. The road 
ran around the edge of a cliff most of the after- 
noon ; while riding along some one hundred or one 
hundred and fifty feet above the river, the chair 
bumped against a rock and came near tipping over. 
It isn't likely I would have fallen into the river, 
but it wouldn't have been a pleasant spill. I rec- 
ognized two of my Texas friends to-day — the 
" Jimson Weed " and the Texas cain or prickly 
pear. The latter is said to grow nowhere else in 
the world but Texas, and it is a mystery how it got 
here! 

I started out to count the tea coolies to-day. In 
two hours I counted fifty-two, but some were in 
the inns, so that I did not see all of them. I saw 
one fellow carrying two hundred and eighty cat- 
ties, or three hundred and seventy pounds. Some 
women had one hundred and one hundred and 
fifty catties, while I saw boys twelve and fourteen 
years (maybe younger) with fifty to one hundred 



70 A Message from Batang 

catties. This is the most cruelly hard work I have 
ever seen men do. The passes are terrible for 
them, and they may die on the road. The poor 
fellows only get about three hundred cash or 
fifteen cents a day for their work. 

To-night we are in Lutingchow. We found the 
most disreputable inns that one could imagine. 
Eooms into which the sunlight has not entered 
since they were built. So dark you could scarcely 
see, dirty and foul beyond belief. We searched 
diligently for a better one, but in vain. We then 
tried a temple with better success. The priest took 
us in, and we have the whole temple to ourselves. 
I am now writing in the main room which is large, 
and has a good concrete floor. A few feet away is 
a table with incense and candles in front of a num- 
ber of fierce-looking gods, and also some ancestral 
tablets. Just opposite us is a suspension bridge 
across the Tong Eiver. It is built of huge iron 
chains fastened with stone pillars. The bridge is 
about six feet wide and three hundred feet long. 
It swings so when crossing, it is hard to walk with- 
out holding on to something. The floor is made 
of loose boards which have wide places, through 
which one could easily thrust a foot. But alto- 
gether it is a clever piece of work, and required 
some skill in the building of it. The chains are 
thirteen in number. Four chains at the sides form 
a kind of railing as it were.. It was a splendid 
idea, but like most Chinese architecture it was not 
carried out in its finer details. An iron tablet we 



Overland Towards the Tibetan Border 71 

found in a little hut after some search told the 
story of its erection. It was planned by a Chinese 
general in a Tibetan campaign of two hundred 
years ago. The tablet was erected in the forty- 
fifth year of Kang Hsi, what would be 1Y07 A. D. 

The most interesting event of the day was a visit 
to a Tibetan Tusa, or king, in a small village a 
short distance away. He himself came and met us, 
and with much polite formality we were ushered 
into the guest room. We were not very suitably 
attired to meet his excellency, but he appeared not 
to notice the week's beard on our faces, and our 
travel-stained clothes. We saw a pleasant faced 
young man who lives in an ordinary Chinese house, 
wears Chinese clothes and queue, and speaks good 
Chinese in a low, pleasant voice. In spite of his 
Chinese surroundings it was easy to see he was not 
pure Chinese by any means. He talked to us of 
his subjects, and the families, and the way he gov- 
erned, and of his tribute to the Chinese govern- 
ment. We now tried to bid our friend good-bye, 
but no, we must drink some more tea. Finally we 
insisted that our caravan was being delayed be- 
cause of our stay, and so excused ourselves from re- 
maining to dinner, which he urged us to do. How- 
ever^ our distinguished friend determined to treat 
us royally, and presented us with a large measure 
of fine rice and a large, fat fowl. He personally 
escorted us to the outer gate of his grounds, and so 
with a profuse exchanging of polite bows and good 
wishes we bade him good-bye. After a good brisk 



72 A Message from Batang 

walk in the hot sun we overtook our boys, and the 
coolies to whom we exhibited our trophies, and en- 
tertained them with an account of our visit to the 
Tibetan king. 

May '23d. 

We first crossed the chain bridge, and continued 
along the bank of the river. As it was very hot, I 
did not feel like exposing myself to the sun, so I 
felt obliged to ride most of the time. But the 
dizzy height, and the sudden lurches of the chair 
made me cringe more than once, and voluntarily 
lean towards the face of the great cliff in which our 
path was cut. To make matters worse a strong 
wind blew vigorously as we crept around the sharp 
corners of cliffs hundreds of feet about the river. 
I found it easier to be satisfied with my position 
while reading, instead of staring out on the jagged 
rocks a thousand feet below. We passed many 
Tibetan villages and houses, while we saw an in- 
creasing number of Tibetan people. We passed 
one of their shrines with many prayer wheels and 
idols, where the devout Tibetan gives the drumful 
of written words a spin and thus offers up millions 
of prayers at one time. 

At an inn we found one poor tea coolie who had 
fallen down with his load. In falling a big bit of 
corn cake had dropped from the top of his load, 
and struck him edgewise in the eye. The poor 
fellow was in great pain. On examination I found 
the sclera conjunctiva badly contused and swollen. 
I fixed] up [a little medicine, as best I could, to re- 



Overland Towards the Tibetan Border 73 

lieve and help him. Later in the day we passed a 
poor leper beggar woman on the roadside, on a 
high lonely cliff. At first the object seemed to be 
a shapeless bundle of rags on the rocks, but on in- 
vestigation showed the hideous features of a leper. 
I shuddered as I thought of the terrible life of 
this miserable outcast, an exile from home and 
friends with begging as the only chance of warding 
off the death which is soon to come to her. Oh ! 
for the Master's touch ! 

Soon the road led us around the cliff through 
much large cacti, down into a valley directly be- 
low us. The house we are now in is, if possible, 
worse than the one we escaped last night. Only 
one window, through which the sunlight cannot 
come. Walls black with smoke and dirt of years. 
Foul-smelling pools in front and behind. To- 
morrow we start on the final climb to Ta chien lu. 
"We are virtually at a flight of stairs which lead 
to the roof of the world ; not until I return this way 
again will I be below 8,000 feet. So I bid farewell 
to the lowlands again, and plunge into the moun- 
tain fastnesses of my people, the Tibetans. 

May '21ith. 
We got a fairly early start and were soon climb- 
ing up towards the great plateau. Our road ran 
along the Ta chien lu River. This is a most wild 
mountain stream. It is virtually a continuous 
series of waterfalls all along the way. Its roar 
at times is deafening, and it throws spray many 



74 A Message fromsBatang 

feet into the air and out on to the road. In many 
places it is crossed by a bamboo bridge made of a 
single bamboo cable strung with rings and a rope. 
Along this a passenger shdes himself, one arm over 
the cable and one free to pull himself as he sits or 
hangs in one of the rings. We passed up a valley 
that was remarkable in many ways. The sides of 
the mountains were almost perpendicular in many 
places, the peaks rising to a height of 15,000 to 
20,000 feet. There were signs of immense land- 
slides. Huge granite boulders dotted the valley. 
Beautiful waterfalls tumbled down the sides of the 
mountains from dizzy heights. I walked a good 
deal and got very lame. A rain-storm came up, 
and we took refuge beneath some overhanging 
rocks. Later in the day it turned cold and I was 
chilly with my overcoat on. We saw coolies car- 
rying great loads of deer horns to be used as med- 
icine. One woman was carrying a huge load of 
wood, and a basket in which was a baby about one 
month old. Another coolie carried a large fat hog, 
which was on top of his basket, and lay without a 
squeal or struggle, seemingly enjoying the ride. 
The mountains grew more rugged and wild looking 
as we went on, so that I became more and more 
fascinated with the country. Met many Tibetans, 
who are most interesting to me. 

About 4 p. M., we ascended a slight rise, 
and thus below us lay the famous city of Ta 
chien lu. Long had I dreamed of this city, and I 
could scarcely restrain myself from shouting with 



Overland Towards the Tibetan Border 75 

joy at the sight of it. Its architecture is too inter- 
esting and complicated to try to describe now. I 
leave it for another day. We proceeded to the 
best inn, but found it occupied by our friend Dr. 
Laufer whom we met at Yachow, We had to go 
to another inn not so good, but it was the best we 
could do. The event of the evening was getting 
my mail. I sent Johnny to the oflB.ce, and he 
came back with a coolie carrying a sack full of it. 
There were letters and cards by the dozens, an 
arm load of newspapers and packages. I started 
in on the letters, but only got through with a few 
to-night. The joy of getting a lot of letters after 
doing without one for over three months must be 
experienced to be appreciated. 

May ^8th. 
After dinner we went for a walk to the won- 
derful hot springs here in the city of Ta chien lu. 
The water is so saturated with lime salts, that 
it has built up a bed some twelve feet high and 
several feet long, and a few feet wide. The 
water flows off in a solid stone gutter of its 
own making. When we returned a fellow came 
to me with a very bad finger. The end had 
been cut off, leaving the bone sticking through. I 
amputated part of the finger. It was done under 
cocaine with no pain to the poor fellow, much to 
his great astonishment and pleasure. He was 
blindfolded during the operation and great was 
his amazement when I placed the end of his finger 
in his hand. Later in the day we went for a walk 



76 A Message from Batang 

through the city and beyond it. This is a most 
interesting place. The city is situated in a very 
narrow valley, with high mountains on three sides. 
They are covered with snow to about 10,000 feet. 
The city is not quite 9,000 feet above sea level. 
The buildings are mostly in Tibetan style, and are 
of rough stone rectangular in shape, and huddled to- 
gether in Chinese fashion. The shops are full of 
interesting things both Chinese and Tibetan. The 
streets are full of lamas, yak drivers with their 
caravans, horses and animals of all kinds. "We 
stopped at one place where some lamas were chant- 
ing prayers. They were seated on the floor, 
around a small low table on which were copies 
of their sacred writings. They would blow some 
brass trumpets a while, then ring some bells and 
beat on a drum, and then chant the prayers in a 
most weird voice. The whole thing was an inter- 
esting ceremony, and not without its musical quali- 
ties even if it was heathen. It was better than 
the Chinese noises which are disconnected, harsh 
and unmusical. Many mounds are to be seen all 
about the city. They are built up of slabs of 
stone on which are carved the famous " Omani 
padme hum." Prayer flags and mounds surround 
the hills, while everywhere we see them of paper 
and cloth waving in the wind. 

May mth. 
Went out into the city to make a few purchases 
preparatory to getting away for Batang. After 
dinner walked out to the lamasery near the city. 



Overland Towards the Tibetan Border 77 

It is a large, imposing place, composed of several 
buildings. We went into the outer court and halls 
of the large temple. It was very interesting with 
strange paintings covering the walls of the front 
portico or vestibule. We came out giving a big 
Tibetan dog a wide berth, and visited some smaller 
adjacent temples. Some were filled with the 
prayer drmns or cylinders and flittering flags. De- 
vout Tibetans passed around these cylinders giving 
them a whirl, thus offering millions of prayers in 
one second. In one building — I should not dignify 
it by the name of building, for it was a mere mud 
and stone hut — but in this was a huge cylinder 
about three feet in diameter, and six feet high, cov- 
ered with leather, and with mystic characters in 
gilt on the outside. Inside it contained some half 
million or more written mani prayers. By means 
of a line and crank an old Tibetan was revolving it ; 
at each revolution it rang a bell overhead, so that 
the number of revolutions could be the more easily 
counted. The old man was offering up prayers by 
the millions for the Tibetan women who wanted 
sons. They moved about the huge drum, bowing 
and prostrating themselves before it, from the four 
points of the compass. There was a wild look in 
their eyes as they went through this heathen cere- 
mony. One of them dipped her fingers in the 
black lubricating oil on the axles of the cylinder, 
and smeared the tarry stuff on her face and neck. 
The sight of this ugly, hideous, dirty old Tibetan 
and the strange proceedings were things I cannot 



78 A Message from Batang 

forget. It struck chill to my heart when I saw 
these deluded wretches groping so blindly in the 
dark for help from a higher power. I watched for 
a few minutes, and unable to stand it any longer 
turned away to hide the tears in my eyes, and went 
out with a great lump in my throat. May God 
help me to bring the light to these people, and to 
lay the burden of their souls' salvation on the hearts 
of the Christians at home ! We went to another 
temple where hundreds of little lamps were burn- 
ing before the idols, while lamas beat drums and 
chanted, whilst the devotees' lips kept constantly 
chewing the magic words " O mani padme hum " 
over and over. Sick at heart at the sight of all 
this, and the many obscene pictures on the walls, I 
returned to the inn to rest and read. 

May ^7th. 
My cook " struck " to-day, absolutely refusing to 
go on with me to Batang. We argued the ques- 
tion every way, but nothing could persuade him 
not to leave me in the lurch. Chinese have been 
coming out from the mountains telling the most 
terrible stories about the passes, saying that arms, 
hands, feet and eyes have been freezing and drop- 
ping off. This seems to have him scared. 

May 28fh. 
Began packing to-day in earnest, and everything 
was pretty well in order by the afternoon ! Ula 
has been secured and we gave orders for the ani- 



Overland Towards the Tibetan Border 79 

mals to be ready on Monday. The cook finally 
came round O. K. 

May Wih. 
The day dawned bright and clear. In the after- 
noon went out for a walk. The sun shone brightly 
most of the time. Large banks of fleecy, white 
clouds hovered around back of the mountains. 
The sky was a beautiful blue. The snow shone 
out in marked contrast to the great, dark rocks 
and cliffs of the mountain tops. Lower down their 
sides were green with vegetation. The city and 
river lay at their feet. The temperature was 69° 
Fahrenheit, yesterday 46° Fahrenheit. We vis- 
ited two lamaseries. At one two fierce dogs acted 
as if they would tear us to pieces, but we kept our 
faces towards them, and managed to keep them 
off. We entered a large open court through a 
door near which were large "mani" cyhnders. 
The lamas live in rooms around this court. The 
temple faced the gate of entrance. We ascended a 
flight of several stone steps to the outer hall, the 
walls of which were decorated with highly colored 
paintings of the wheel of life, Buddhas, the holy 
mountain, etc. A number of Tibetan men and 
women were prostrating themselves before these 
pictures and chanting prayers. Inside was a large 
rectangular room, with a dome in the centre. The 
side facing the door was occupied by various large, 
gilt idols and the sacred books ; dozens of little 
lamps burned before the idols. The whole room 
was very dark, and you could see little by the dim 



8o A Message from Batang 

light that came from the lamps through the open 
door. Two rows of drums and idols extended 
nearly across the width of the room. Around the 
walls sat devout lamas on rugs, turning prayer 
wheels, and droning oat the everlasting prayers. 
Some kept bowing constantly to the gods, all dirty, 
lousy, and unkempt. Some of the furnishings of 
the temple were silver, a few of gold, and the rest 
brass and copper. Silken draperies and embroider- 
ies covered the walls, and hung from pillars and 
cross-beams, until the whole place seemed to be 
filled with them, mostly bright colored. From the 
dome hung long umbrella-like affairs of silken 
strips of cloth. They were of many bright colors, 
and formed as it were a huge tube or cylinder. 
The bits of silk were a few inches in width and 
length, and hung overlapping like shingles or 
scales. They were about three feet across, and 
some twenty feet long. A faint light streamed 
down from above somewhere within this mass of 
hangings, bringing out the bright hues of the silks. 
I could but tread softly in this place, so holy to 
the poor wretches, and pity their misguided wor- 
ship. They certainly are the most religious people 
I have ever seen. If they would only serve God 
with as much energy as they serve their idols, what 
a difference it would make. 

May 30th. 
So this is the last night here in the inn. To- 
morrow we tackle the passes. Now for the last 
grand, final rush for Batang. 



ym 

In the Tibetan Passes 

May 31st 
We were up by daybreak, and glad to see that it 
was to be a clear day. Our " Ula " arrived early. 
Four horses for riding, and a lot of shaggy yak 
for the loads. Twelve animals in all. By 7 : 30 
we had told our friends good-bye and were ready 
to be off. Keluctantly I left faithful Johnny be- 
hind to look after the rest of the freight which is 
to follow in a few weeks. We had an elegant day. 
We could hardly have wished for a better. There 
was not a cloud in the sky. As I rode out of 
Ta chien lu and reached higher ground, I got a 
view of the great, snow-capped mountains to the 
rear of the city. To our left rose a majestic range 
of mountains 20,000 feet in height, rough and 
jagged, but mostly covered with snow wherever it 
would stick. It was a magnificent sight we had, 
not a thing to obstruct the view. The air was 
sharp and clear, and the rough outlines of the 
peaks stood out against the blue sky as plainly as if 
it had been a picture. Each new turn of the road 
brought new scenes. The snow of the pass loomed 
up at times, reminding us of what was to come. 
Great granite boulders and cliffs lined the ravines, 
while at the bottom tumbles the roaring mountain 

81 



82 A Message from Batang 

stream. There were beautiful flowers everywhere, 
blue, white and yellow, which dotted the green 
grass like stars in the heavens. Khododendrons 
of extreme size and beauty grew all over the 
mountains. Larch, pines and cedars were promi- 
nent among the trees. Gooseberry shrubs and 
scrub prickly oak were also much in evidence. 
Mosses, grasses and ferns filled the gorges with 
their beautiful verdure. There were few houses to 
be seen, but we passed and were passed by several 
caravans. 

Mr. Sorensen of Ta chien lu, C. I. M., overtook 
us about 1 p. M. en route to Derge and thence 
to Chamdo. We came on together to Jeddo, where 
we stopped for the night in a Tibetan inn, or rest- 
house. There are a number of houses scattered 
about, which justifies the place having a name. It 
is also the end of the first day's journey. The inn is 
a dirty looking house of Tibetan style, built of stone 
and mud. We are all in a small dirty back room, 
the horses tied in the one next to us, which also 
does duty as a kitchen and general reception hall 
in the daytime. We stopped early, and I got a 
good view of the mountains as the clouds began to 
settle down on them. I went out and sat on a rock 
in the sun, watching them through my glasses. 
The snow and ice seemed to be from fifty to one 
hundred feet deep in places, and formed great 
hummocks. There seemed to be a few small 
glaciers far up on the sides. The actual elevation 
above the valley must be 10,000 to 13,000 feet. 



In the Tibetan Passes 83 

My ! but they are immense ! 'Near by we found a 
hot spring, and had a good bath. It was quite a 
novel treat to lie soaking in a spring so hot that 
you could scarcely bear it, at an altitude of 11,000 
feet, and watch the sun turning the snow on the 
mountain tops to beautiful colors of pink and gold 
in the evening sunset. It was a delightful bath in 
nature's own tub. One fellow there said his last 
bath had been taken last year. His looks confirmed 
the statement. The rest have all gone to bed, and 
I'm the only one up. From far below comes the 
faint roar of the stream. The tinkle of a horse 
bell can just be heard. The animals in the next 
room move about a little. A dog with bells on him 
scratched fleas to the accompaniment of their 
merry jingle, while a few mumbling words from 
some children give the human touch to the sounds. 
The first day en route to Batang. An interesting 
day, and not very tiresome either. 

Jwne 1st. 
"We at once began the ascent of the pass. It 
was somewhat cloudy, so that the view was not so 
good at first, but later it cleared up considerably. 
We followed the valley until about 8 : 30, when we 
stopped for breakfast. After eating we rode 
rapidly on, higher and higher until the few dwarf 
shrubs began to be small and few indeed. I had 
put on my overcoat as we were nearing the snow 
line. It began to be cooler, and though the sun 
necessitated a sun-hat, the coat was welcome. Soon 



84 A Message from Batang 

we reached snow, which began to be more and 
more in evidence as we went up the mountain- 
side, until the ground was almost covered, and it 
was several feet deep at the roadside. Shortly 
before noon we reached the top; a magnificent 
view of snow-capped mountains lay behind us. 
Peaks covered with snow and ice were about on 
all sides, except just in front and to the rear. 
I tried to ride out on a little knoll to get a 
better view, but after the horse had floundered 
around in the deep snow a while, I gave it up and 
proceeded down the road. "While crossing the 
pass we saw the remains of four yak that had 
died recently in trying to cross. This shows it 
is not all play. I felt no effect from the altitude, 
though the pass was 14,500 feet. "We descended 
into a beautiful valley. The hills were not so 
rough and steep, and there was much good grass, 
and many herds of yak and sheep were seen graz- 
ing. "We saw a number of black tents of the 
nomads. "We stopped at 1 p. m. and waited for the 
boys. When they came they were scared nearly 
to death about the pass. My cook was almost 
panic-stricken, and had been all day. He feared 
all kinds of terrible things. This, with the alti- 
tude, gave him a headache and pulse of 128. I 
suppose he was sick. "We went to see several 
Tibetan settlements, and quite a lot of land being 
cultivated. "Wheat and barley were the chief 
crops, and it seemed to be rather a prosperous 
valley. "We saw the remains of a strange stone 



In the Tibetan Passes 85 

tower; its original use is not known. It was 
evidently built some 2,000 years ago, and was 150 
feet in height. Such towers are supposed to have 
been used either for defense, or religious purposes. 
About 6 p. M. we reached the little settlement of 
ITyang-Yanba, and hunted up the lamasery, where 
we found a good room. It is a stone building, 
typically Tibetan. We are on the third floor in the 
main hall, where the idols and holy books are kept. 
The walls are painted in flesh colors, and orna- 
mented with lotus and other flowers. There are 
also a number of interesting scrolls which we ex- 
amined. Pictures of Tibetan gods and goddesses. 
We made a fire of cow manure. It filled the room 
with foul smoke, but we managed to dry a few 
things that had gotten wet. We cooked our own 
supper, [out of sympathy for the frightened boys. 
I made a late meal of parched rice and good Amer- 
ican ham and coffee. I will now stretch out in 
front of the idols, and sleep in peace. 

June 2d. 
To-day our road lay down the valley of Dongola. 
There were more traces of cultivation. I saw 
some stunted pea vines struggling for growth in 
spite of the altitude. The valley continued for 
several miles, where it connected with two more 
forming a kind of " T " ; we followed one of them, 
and went up instead of down. About ten o'clock 
came to the village of Dongola, where there are a 
few Tibetan houses. We stopped, and had a meal 



86 A Message from Batang 

of tsamba and butter-tea which I quite enjoyed. 
The tsamba is made of barley which is parched and 
ground. I also ate some Tibetan cheese, which I 
liked better than the butter. We changed Ula here, 
so we had new saddle horses, and a new caravan 
of animals. The mountainsides now began to be 
wooded. There was a number of kinds of pine and 
fir, as well as plum, and a kind of small tree I took 
to be birch. Many trees were quite large, and had 
long festoons of moss hanging to them. The 
streams ran between moss-covered banks and 
stones. "We crossed several small cantilever 
bridges, quite well built, though crude. A number 
of small lamaseries were perched high up on the 
mountainsides. The hillsides showed signs of 
having been visited once, perhaps by Chinese farm- 
ers who were sent in 150 years ago ; but because 
the land wouldn't grow rice, deserted it, leaving it 
in possession of the Tibetans again. We also saw 
the remains of several of those interesting Tibetan 
towers. About 2 p. m. we arrived at a solitary 
rest-house, just at the foot of the Ga-zhi-lu, a double 
pass. We decided to stop for the night, as our lug- 
gage didn't arrive until five o'clock. There is a full 
moon, and the view outside is glorious. The silvery 
light is shed over the mountains and valleys, making 
them look all the more beautiful in its soft glow. 
The best room, which we have, is something fierce. 
The floor is of rough earth, with an ash heap and a 
pile of stones in the centre where a fire was when 
we came. Smoke from the adjoining rooms filters 



In the Tibetan Passes 87 

throagh the thin partitions, so that I have been 
shedding tears while writing this, not tears of 
sorrow, however ; but because of the pungent fumes 
from the Tibetan fires. I tore some paper from a 
window, preferring to risk cold from the draft 
than endure the smoke. I think I can stand it 
better asleep. So here goes. 

Jv/ne 3d. 
The sun was just kissing the mountain tops and 
creeping down into the valleys as we started. We 
were feeling fine after a good night's rest and a 
good breakfast. A heavy frost made the air crisp 
and bracing, so we were in splendid spirits for 
what was in store for us. We had a pretty stiff 
climb for about 2,500 or 3,000 feet. The mountains 
began to be more heavily wooded. Saw great 
pines fifty to sixty feet high as far up as 14,000 
feet. As we neared the top the road ascended a 
steep bank, and we suddenly came out on top of 
the pass. It was a gentle, undulating surface that 
met our eyes, with patches of snow here and there. 
Good grass grew even at this height. A mani 
mound with flags flying was just beside the road 
and marked the summit. We got off our horses to 
let them graze while we turned to view the scene 
before us. A magnificent range of mountains lay 
to the east of us. Far below extended valley after 
valley thousands of feet deep, separated by ridges 
that were actually mountains. After our view 
had crossed a dozen or so of these immense valleys, 



88 A Message from Batang 

the snow-capped mountains began. The range 
extended over abont one-fourth of the horizon 
before our view was cut off by nearer mountains. 
"We were about 14,500 feet, and above the snow, 
while we reckoned the snow a little lower on the 
mountains which might be called the Frontier 
range. Great peaks rose above the snow line like 
immense icebergs. They were sharp, irregular and 
jagged. The whole horizon was serrated, like 
great saw teeth. The mountains rose one above 
another, and seemed piled up in a remarkable way. 
But far above all rose the majestic peaks that were 
perfectly dazzling in their grandeur. By careful 
estimation we decided that they were nearer 30,000 
feet than 25,000. There were immense mountains 
even above the snow line which tallied 14,000 or 
15,000 feet. With my glasses I counted one 
hundred and twenty-five peaks which rose so far 
above the snow line that we estimated them at 
20,000 feet and upwards. 

As we ascended the other crest of the pass, we 
departed from the regular road, and ascended a 
hill which took us up to an altitude of over 15,000 
feet. We quickly dismounted to see the new 
scene. If the first view was grand this one was 
marvellous beyond belief. I had no idea that so 
grand a scene could be found in the world. I 
wanted to cry out with admiration and praise to 
God for such beauty. My heart was so filled with 
emotion that I could scarcely speak, and tears came 
to my eyes when I saw what God had done. Our 



In the Tibetan Passes 89 

field of vision was almost a complete circle. I 
made a careful estimate of it, and decided that 
only about sixty degrees of the circle was obscured 
from view and that only by snowy mountains 
15,500 or 18,000 feet high within five miles of us. 
The rest of the circle, or about three hundred 
degrees, was clear, and with no obstructions to the 
wonderful panorama. Our view extended over a 
radius of two hundred miles, with us in the centre 
of this wonderful series of mountains. The range 
we saw was continued to the north and south, for 
hundreds of miles. To the north the peaks were 
not so high, yet they were far above the snow line. 
One great cluster of peaks was even higher than the 
two to the east of us. "We felt it safe to say 
not far below 30,000 feet, if any at all. We 
estimated that it rose 15,000 feet above the snow 
line. It was magnificent indeed, stern, cold, 
commanding. It was a veritable monarch of the 
ranges — a peer among the peerless. One interest- 
ing thing we noticed. An indistinct haze or mist 
clustered about the summit of a peak resembling 
a halo. It seemed to be distinctly not a cloud, but 
a peculiar vapor, whether caused by hot springs or 
subterranean fires remains to be discovered. 

I made a photo of these mountains, though ia 
order to place my camera I had to rest it on its 
carrying case, and lie down in the mud to focus it. 
But it was a rare scene, and one which I fain would 
preserve. No one who has not had a similar ex- 
perience can understand what thrills of emotion 



90 A Message from Batang 

filled my breast. Here I was drinking in the 
beauties of a scene which for grandeur and splen- 
dor is doubtless unequalled in the world. These 
mountains undoubtedly rank among the highest on 
the globe. Here were these great peaks, four or 
five above 25,000 feet at the most conservative es- 
timate, and a grand sweep of the horizon, extend- 
ing for at least five hundred miles, with range after 
range of unnamed mountains and peaks, all above 
15,000 feet. Hundreds of them at least 20,000 
feet. I feel perfectly sure the scene cannot be 
equalled anywhere in India on the Tibetan border. 
Conversations with people who have been there, as 
well as photographs, convince me that the view 
cannot compare with this ; and not only that, but 
few people have had the privilege of beholding 
them from this place. In the first place few white 
men have visited the region, and in the second 
place it is very rare indeed that one gets a view so 
free from clouds ; not one marred our view. It 
is certain that most of the great travellers have not 
seen it, for some of them spent weeks waiting for 
them to rise, that they might get a glimpse of these 
master monarchs. Yet here I was, an insignificant 
country boy, steeping my very soul in the splendor 
of the most magnificent scenery on earth. A view 
which has been denied to all but a very few. I 
felt that it would be good to build tabernacles and 
remain here ; but time was passing, and the keen 
wind seeking out the thin places in our clothing, so 
we led our horses down the steep mountainside. 



In the Tibetan Passes 91 

slipping and sliding over the snow and ice, until we 
came to the regular road below, I can never for- 
get these great mountains. They seem to stand 
out in my mind even now, and appear to be in- 
delibly fixed among the pictures that hang on 
memory's wall. 

Nor was this all that was to fall to my lot to- 
day. We began our descent with the valley that 
leads to the Yalung Kiver. The road went down, 
down thousands of feet, until we were about 11,000 
feet again. The mountains and valleys were mar- 
vellously beautiful. There were virgin forests of 
pine, fir and oak, many of the pines being one 
hundred feet high, and the forest so thick that I 
could see but a few feet from the road in many 
places. Many of the trees were covered with fes- 
toons of moss, lighter in color and finer in texture 
than the famous Spanish moss (or old man's beard) 
of our Southern states. Fires and storms have at 
times devastated the forests. In many places the 
mountainsides were strewn with a network of 
fallen trees, scattered like so many straws. The 
undergrowth was also very rank as we descended, 
until it became a veritable jungle. 

By this time we had gotten into an entirely dif- 
ferent climate. The sun shone down with summer 
heat. The air was warm and balmy, and the gen- 
tlest zephyrs stirred. The air has been laden with 
perfume from countless wild flowers of strange and 
peculiar beauty ; many are entirely unlike any I 
have ever seen. The flora and fauna in this valley 



92 A Message from Batang 

becomes strangely tropical. Parrots are found in 
the forest. Monkeys are said to live here. Bears, 
wolves, leopards and other large game are found 
here in abundance. The peculiar climate of this 
valley is an interesting thing to the scientists who 
have had their attention called to it. One other 
interesting thing was the abundance of wild fruits 
that we saw growing along the roadside, which 
was often a pleasant shady lane. "We recognized 
cherries, plums, peaches, possibly quince, or a kind 
of wild apple. Grapes are said to grow here too, 
and I saw a peculiar kind of fruit about the size of 
a black haw which I did not recognize. There 
were also other berries which doubtless are good 
for food. The trees were all bearing well. Many 
had small, green fruit on them. Some in higher 
altitude were just in bloom. We saw a number of 
ruined villages, many of which were very old. There 
were very many culivated fields of wheat, which 
looked green, and gave promise of a good crop. 
These were surrounded by a crude fence made of 
poles, much as we have in timbered sections of the 
South. We passed the residence of the headman 
of this district. It is quite a pretentious dwelling. 
About 3 : 45 p. M., we came to a picturesque little 
Tibetan village (Ba kah lea), or octagonal tower, in 
a very pretty part of the valley. There is a good 
inn, so we put up for the rest of the day. One of 
those peculiar towers is here, and said to be one 
hundred and fifty years old. My belief that they 
were for religious purposes has been strengthened. 



In the Tibetan Passes 93 

It is poorly situated for defense, almost useless for 
that. Our animals arrived about 5 p. m., and I en- 
joyed a good supper, then went for a walk up a 
small, interesting ravine, which gives evidence of 
having been a lake at some previous time. This is 
a wonderfully pretty region, and quite warm and 
pleasant even at night. We walked back by the 
light of the full moon. The silvery light flooded 
the valley with a soft glow, that made even the 
sharp, stony ridges look beautiful by its magic 
power. It is a wonderful place, fascinating, pic- 
turesque, interesting and altogether lovely. Our 
room has only a dirt floor, but is not bad, and I 
have been quite comfortable while writing this. I 
would- gladly write more of what I have seen to- 
day, but the night wanes, and to-morrow has its 
journey and duties, demanding strength which 
must be obtained from " sleep that knits up the rav- 
elled sleeve of care." Let me say that the glori- 
ous things of this day have amply repaid me for 
the unpleasantness of the house-boat trip. The lice, 
fleas, bedbugs, filthy inns, smoke, bad food, bad 
beds, and all else, fade into insignificance when I 
think of the "compensations." Again I render 
thanks to God the Maker of all this, and to Christ 
my Master for allowing me the priceless privilege of 
serving Him in this wonderful part of His footstool. 

June Jfth. 
iN'ot having a hard day before us we slept late, 
and did not get off until about six o'clock. Though 



94 A Message from Batang 

the sun had not reached the valley, it was touch- 
ing the mountain tops ^vith its brilliant light, mak- 
ing them beautiful indeed. The morning air was 
delightful and bracing. I was more pleased than 
ever with the valley. I slept well, and the night 
was a pleasant one. The valley soon became a 
gorge, with sides of stone almost beyond possibil- 
ity of scaling. I think the walls were easily 2,000 
to 4,000 feet deep. Vines and flowers, as well as 
ferns, were plentiful. I saw some yellow violets 
which I stopped to pick. We were completely 
shaded at times by great trees of pine and oak and 
boxwood. Often the road was a narrow cut in the 
side of the cliff, far above the stream. The horse 
as usual persisted ui trying to see how close to the 
edge he could walk without falling off. About ten 
o'clock we came in sight of the muddy waters of 
the Yalung Eiver. This was a brisk, rapid stream, 
a good deal further across than man could cast a 
stone. On the east bank is a group of Tibetan 
houses, which constitute Ho Keo. We found an 
inn after some delay. 

After dinner we went out to see what could be 
seen. The village itself is not very interesting. The 
streets are quite filthy, and inhabited by calves, 
hogs, chickens, fierce dogs and children ; all of 
which play together quite freely. If one of the 
animals is pushed out of the way by some one to 
make room for the baby, the animal seems quite 
grieved. We looked in at the temple of the city 
god, which contained a few dilapidated idols, with 



In the Tibetan Passes 95 

their mouths smeared with opium. The river at- 
tracted our attention next, and we saw there a skin 
boat or coracle. A fellow was rapidly and skill- 
fully crossing the river in it, and I at once wanted 
a ride. It was something new, and I wanted to 
try it. The coracle is made of rawhide or un- 
dressed skins of yak, stretched tightly over a wil- 
low framework, and is oval-shaped, like a giant 
oyster shell. It is about three feet wide and five 
feet long, by fifteen or eighteen inches deep. It 
weighs about eighty catties, and so can easily be 
carried overland. As I stepped in the soft skin it 
gave beneath me, so that it was most unsteady 
footing. We seated ourselves on the bottom, while 
our steersman got on his knees, and mth a short 
paddle, pushed off and rowed up stream a short 
distance, then rapidly crossed the swift current to 
the other side. When ready to return we asked 
him to shoot a small rapid just below the ferry for 
us. At first he objected, but the promise of some 
cash won his consent to be pushed out. The little 
boat was caught by the rapid water and tossed like 
an egg-shell. Our steersman warned us to sit still 
or we would get wet. There is little danger of be- 
ing upset, but one feels rather unsafe to say the 
best of it. The boat was so light it was caught by 
the current and carried down like a leaf. We were 
tossed about from side to side, and held on to the 
framework to keep from bouncing out. Some- 
times water splashed in upon us. We shot like an 
arrow through the rapids, and in a short time our 



96 A Message from Batang 

skillful boatman landed us safely on ttie bank with 
only a bit of water on our clothing, I enjoyed it 
immensely, and would have ridden further down, 
but the man did not like to carry the coracle back 
so far. Anyhow, I had the new and thrilling ex- 
perience of riding in a skin boat, and of shooting a 
rapid in it. The inn where we are staying is pecul- 
iar in one sense, that it has a large crop of vermin, 
about five times as voracious as any I have been in 
yet. The cracks in the walls are literally filled 
with their eggs and larva. Bedbugs, fleas and lice 
are much in evidence, and some have been bold 
enough to attack me while writing. The walls are 
jet black, but not with paint. The smoke of years 
has deposited its soot on the rough boards. Still 
the room is light, and not altogether bad. The 
moonlight is lovely on the mountains and river, 
and I would gladly take a stroll outside, but some- 
thing tells me I had better stop and go "Hunting." 



IX 

At the Top of the World 

June 5th. 
Not having a very strenuous day before us we 
slept late, and took our time with breakfast. By this 
time carriers came to take our things to the ferry. 
Everything was put on a large, clumsy boat, and 
we started across the river ; the boat went through 
a pretty rough rapid, and dipped a lot of water. 
Really it seemed more dangerous than the coracle. 
Horses and yak were on hand for our luggage, and 
we had a most deafening jamboree for an hour or 
so getting loaded and started ; so that it was some- 
what of a relief when I felt the saddle beneath me 
again, and we were on our way. The air was 
balmy, and perfume laden from the many flowers 
and trees. We saw parrots flying about. At mid- 
day we stopped by a stream for lunch, made a 
camp-fire and boiled some tea. I feasted on Bos- 
ton baked beans, English jam, Chinese bread, and 
home-made cookies. It was a regular festal meal 
on the rocks. 

June 6th. 
Our drivers had us awake at 4 : 15 this morning, 
and in a short time we were up and had breakfast. 
We then started up the valley that is said to be so 

97 



98 A Message from Batang 

often frequented by robbers. However we saw 
nothing of them and went on our way peacefully. 
The road led persistently up grade, and we often had 
to stop to let the horses rest. The sky was nearly 
covered with great banks of white clouds, which 
in the distance blended so perfectly with the snow- 
covered mountain tops that it was hard to tell 
where the one ended and the other began. After 
a couple of hours' steady climbing we reached the 
top of the pass Kamala, something over 16,999 feet. 
Behind me was a great snow-capped range of 
mountains rearing lofty peaks, a hundred miles 
away. I counted forty near the 20,000 mark. A 
number of deep patches of snow were scattered 
about, one of which furnished me a large lump to 
quench my thirst. The road now ran around the 
side of the mountain, making a gradual descent 
into a deep valley. Then we ascended as high or 
higher than the first crest, and turning the road 
again descended 1,000 feet or more, and up to a 
third crest as high as the others. Our road now 
lay for a few miles along a gentle undulating table- 
land, about 14,000 feet above sea level. Suddenly 
the road turned down the mountainside, and I saw 
almost beneath me the flat mud roof of a Tibetan 
house. We stopped and tied our horses, and took 
a look around. 

The place is called Bolonzugi. I was told that 
it was the home of the " highest official " in 
China, being at an altitude of about 14,500 feet. 
This official is stationed here for the purpose of 



At the Top of the World 99 

extirpating the robbers, but judging from appear- 
ances he has had a hard time to keep from being 
extirpated himself. The hut was a most miserable 
one. The walls on one side of the den were built 
of sod, on the other of stone. The walls in no 
place were more than ten feet high, and in some 
places one could easily step from the ground to 
the roof of the house. The roof was a mud one, 
supported by poles, and having one or two open- 
ings in it to allow the escape of smoke and en- 
trance of light. The house was almost entirely 
surrounded by heaps of manure much higher than 
itself. This harbored a swarm of flies and other 
insects, and emitted a foul odor. We went within 
to have a look. One half was evidently used for 
a stable. The house was dark, and the stench 
almost unbearable. I carefully picked my way 
through the filth to get a glimpse of the interior. 
In the far corner was a room sometimes given to 
travellers who are unfortunate enough to have to 
spend the night here. On the opposite side was a 
dirty, smoky Chinese kitchen. The filth was inde- 
scribable. Two beings more like fiends than 
humans crouched on the floor. One was a woman 
strong and vigorous, in middle life, but dressed 
in the dirtiest, coarsest rags imaginable. Her 
hands and face appeared to be entire strangers to 
water. The other appeared to be a man, very old. 
He had closely-cropped hair and blue eyes. His 
face was dirty almost beyond belief, his clothes of 
filthly, coarse rags. The whole scene and inmates 



loo A Message from Batang 

were most disgusting, both to sight and smell. 
We tried to bribe them to let me take their pic- 
tm-es, but mthout success. While waiting for our 
caravan we took a walk, hoping to find some water 
I could conscientiously drink. I found a boggy, 
wet place free alike to hogs, calves, horses and yak 
to wade and wallow in. This was where the water 
came from we were to use in making our tea. By 
this time our things had arrived, and we spread a 
dirty saddle blanket on the ground in front of the 
house and had lunch in spite of the filthy surround- 
ings. About two o'clock we came to the official 
rest-house in Shignolah, and put up for the day. 

There are a number of strictly Tibetan houses, 
and the people are quite picturesque in dress and 
appearance. Several dirty old men got up and 
kotowed to us as we went in, looking very much 
like Indian chiefs. The women have a very pe- 
culiar way of dressing the hair. It is braided into 
numerous small braids, about the size of a lead 
pencil, which hang to the waist. In front is a 
cropped lock that falls to the end of the nose. 
On the head is worn a peculiar head-dress, com- 
posed of strips of black cloth about two inches 
wide, fastened together by silver discs, one of 
which hangs down over the back of the head, 
and the other two over the ears. The discs are 
about three inches in diameter, made of silver, 
and variously ornamented with coral or beaten 
figures. Two of these are placed on the sides of 
the head, just a little above the parietal eminences, 




Gewhjij near Samba 




Pr. l^ftis in the Coracle 



At the Top of the World loi 

while the posterior one is a little above the occipi- 
tal protuberance. The ribbon-like bands fall down 
below the waist, and are united by long strings 
of bright colored beads ; some are glass, red, 
coral, turquoise, jade, shell and a peculiar brown 
wooden bead. There are also chains of silver and 
mother-of-pearl at various intervals in the dress. 
We tried to photograph some of them, but the 
women ran like scared rabbits as soon as I ap- 
peared with a camera. The offer of cash had no 
effect. Finally I focussed my camera the best I 
could for a certain distance, then walked uncon- 
cernedly about with it under my arm until they 
got used to it, then made a snap-shot of a woman 
at a loom weaving, while another sat on the 
ground with her back to us. The women also smear 
their faces with butter, which gathers dirt, and 
helps make them more hideous. Naturally the 
Litang women are about the ugliest Tibetans there 
are, and use all the artificial means they can to 
increase their ugliness, or rather hide their beauty, 
a thing which seems to me to be altogether super- 
fluous. 

We are stopping in the usual official inn. Though 
we are at about 12,000 feet, it is quite pleasant and 
comfortable. We must change Ula here, and the 
chances are we will be late getting off to-morrow. 
I was much interested in a little table-land about 
10,000 feet above the city. It has an area of 
about ten square miles and a little lake on it. 
There was splendid grass, and a large number of 



102 A Message from Batang 

cattle grazing. From the opposite mountain I 
made out with my glasses the ruins of two small 
villages apparently entirely deserted. The hill- 
sides leading up to the table-land are steep and 
rough, so that it is accessible only in a few places. 

May 7th. 

It was about 2 : 30 when we finally got away 
with our miscellaneous caravan. We had horses, 
large and small, a mule and a donkey, as well as 
some yak and a steer. We soon left the beautiful 
little valley, and ascended the side of a mountain 
which was quite well timbered. The climb was 
not difficult, and we were soon on top of the pass 
which is about 14,000 feet. There was some 
fine grazing land. This was a kind of table-land 
we had come upon, and we travelled along for 
some time over the gentle undulating ground. 
Then the road veered a little to the south, and 
descended into a valley well wooded, and with a 
large mountain stream flowing through it. There 
was evidence of a fair population. On the way 
down we saw an old woman gathering sprouting 
grubs. The animal or plant was about one and 
one-half inches long, slightly yellow, and resembled 
a caterpillar. From the posterior end grew a brown 
sprout, two or three inches long. They are highly 
prized as an article of diet, and are quite expensive. 

Shortly after descending into the valley we 
stopped for dinner, where there was a Tibetan 
house built of small logs, much after the plan of 



At the Top of the World 103 

log houses at home, except the roof was the usual 
flat, dirt roof. After quite a rest we started up a 
peculiar, long ravine that finally led to the top of 
another pass. Once on top we were at an altitude 
of about 15,000 feet. Again we were on a great 
rolling plateau of grass lands. I saw hundreds of 
head of yak grazing. The grass was quite plentiful, 
and of good quality. We travelled quite a while 
on this plateau, getting magnificent views of many 
valleys, with just enough timber to break the mon- 
otony, and give some shade to the cattle from the 
heat. The sun's rays are very powerful on these 
mountains, and soon blister. "We made a gradual 
descent into a pretty valley, where there were a 
number of black tents of the nomads, and hun- 
dreds of yak and sheep grazing. 

My horse was fagged out, and I had to drop be- 
hind the others. We had not gone far up the 
mountainside until it was very clear my horse 
could not go. He had to rest every few steps, and 
seemed worn out. I then got off to walk and lead 
him. We were a long way from the top, which is 
practically 16,000 feet. The higher we went the 
more fagged the horse was, and I had to stop every 
ten or twenty feet with him ; not only was the 
horse tired, but I, too, often had to sit down to 
rest. I felt no effect of the altitude except that 
every few steps made me gasp for breath, and 
caused my heart to pump vigorously. But stfil I 
kept on. All the others soon left me, with the ex- 
ception of a soldier, who rode behind and drove 



104 -^ Message from Batang 

the horse, while I walked and tried to drag him 
along. The road seemed terribly long, and the 
pass awfully high, but I succeeded at length in 
reaching the summit. 

The sun had been shining vigorously, but now a 
strong cold wind swept over the mountain top. I 
paused for a few moments to rest and admire the 
scenery. Though the clouds shut off some of the 
mountains, I was able to get a magnificent view of 
the great snow-covered range which lay to our 
south several days ago. (I counted eight peaks I 
felt sure must be 25,000 feet.) It was a lovely 
sight, and I could not help but admire it, even 
though I was so exhausted. The road now led 
around the side of the mountain, making a gradual 
descent. I struggled against the wind, and led my 
horse for some distance. Then I saw that the road 
finally descended into a valley 200 feet below me, 
and that an old path formerly descended at once 
into the valley to follow the mountain stream. I 
then left the travelled road and struck off down 
the steep path where perhaps white men's feet had 
not trodden before. It was a very steep and tire- 
some descent, but I reached the bottom at last. 
After resting a little, and quenching my thirst with 
some snow water, I mounted the pony again. He 
seemed quite refreshed, but plodded along slowly. 
Once or twice I saw a number of the rare yellow 
poppies, and stopped and gathered a few, and stored 
them in my hat. This, with the wind, made it 
very difficult to keep my hat in place. Still we 



At the Top of the World 105 

plodded wearily on. I was th'ed and uncomforta- 
able, and it had gotten quite cold, and the stiff 
breeze which came up the valley seemed to pene- 
trate to the bones. At last I saw a rest-house be- 
fore me. I welcomed it, and managed to alight, 
and found the others had been here some time. 

This place is called Ho-chu-ka. A river runs not 
far below us, called the Ho-chu Eiver. A strange 
name. Ho is Chinese for river — Chu is the Tibetan 
word which means river, while the English word 
gives it the name the third time. It certainly is 
well named "river." It has been a strenuous day ; 
we crossed three large mountains, while I had to 
climb a 16,000 foot pass, and almost drag a horse 
over. A good night's rest will be welcome. 

June 8th. 
The official from the place went with us to act 
as our escort to Litang. He was a nice fellow, and 
we got quite friendly with him. We followed up 
the Ho-chu Eiver for about twenty or thirty li, and 
stopped at a rest-house for dinner. "While there we 
saw three Chinamen on their way out from Batang. 
They had been sent in as colonists, and tiring of 
the hardships of the place, decided to make their 
way out. They were hungry, without money, sick 
and walking with heavy loads. We felt sorry for 
them, and gave them some eggs, Tibetan butter 
and two rupees. The poor fellows almost bumped 
their heads off on the ground kotowing to us. 
They were subject to arrest, but we spoke to the 



lo6 A Message from Batang 

official and soldier with us, so that they were un- 
molested. However we later learned that they 
had received four hundred stripes at Litang, and 
ordered to return. This is a very shameful way 
the officials have of treating the colonists, and 
would not be tolerated in a civilized country. 

Our road now turned up a ravine which led to 
the next pass. The mountain is about 15,000 feet 
but does not seem so high. The usual grassy slopes 
with many cattle met the eye, with here and there 
the black tents of the nomads. As we neared the 
top we saw a huge bird, resembling an eagle, flying 
along. We dismounted, and I made my way up a 
small gully with my rifle. Though a stiff wind 
was blowing broadside I took aim and fired. The 
bird was dead when I reached it. Its wings meas- 
ured 100 inches from tip to tip, and its head nine 
inches in diameter. I cut off the head as a trophy 
of my first kill on the Tibetan border. We now 
began to descend, and soon came in sight of the 
Litang plain. It is between mountains 15,000 and 
17,000 feet and is itself at an altitude of 14,000 
feet. The plain is triangular in shape, roughly 
speaking, the river running along the longer side 
of the angle. It is approximately one hundred li 
long, thirty or forty li wide at its greatest width, 
with the other two sides about sixty li in length. 
It is a beautiful undulating plain, growing more 
smooth towards the river, which runs at the base 
of high, rocky, snowy mountains. It is for the 
most part a sandy plain. As we rode across I no- 



At the Top of the World 107 

ticed the soil very closely. The basis of it seemed 
to be the same as the tops of the passes "we had 
just crossed — vertical or oblique strata of shale and 
slate, and a kind of soapstone, and more or less a 
kind of yellowish white clay. On top of this was 
a stratum of sand, gravel and small stones, with a 
bit of soil in it. This was more than ten feet deep 
in many places, occasionally deeper. The stones 
are worn, as by the action of water, and are of 
various kinds, quartz, granite, sandstone, flint, lime- 
stone, etc. Distinct layers seem to show that they 
were deposited by water. On top of this is often 
found a layer of pure sand a foot or two deep, hav- 
ing been apparently blown up in the ridges. Then 
on top of this is a layer of soil (stratified) resem- 
bling the Loess soil. It is free from stones in gen- 
eral, and evidently deposited by winds. 

As one ascends higher these strata gradually give 
way to the regular rocky soil of the mountains. 
There is a deep gorge at the lower end of the plain, 
through which the river flows. All the evidence 
seems to point that this has been a great lake, and 
that it at last broke through the gorge, leaving this 
deposit of sand, stones, etc. "Winds and rains have 
done the rest. In the summer this plain is green 
with grass, and covered with thousands of head of 
yak, horses and sheep, etc. In the northern angle 
of the triangle, which is the obtuse, is situated the 
city of Litang. This city is unique in many ways. 
It is most likely the highest city in the world 
It is also one of the dirtiest. It possesses one of the 



io8 A Message from Batang 

largest lamaseries outside of Lassa. "We reached 
the city about 1 p. m., and at once went in 
search of an inn. The official sent his man to see 
if we could be accommodated in the lamasery. 
This was a delightful prospect, and we feared it 
was too good to be materialized. However, soon 
the man returned saying that a place had been 
secured. We were then escorted into the " forbid- 
den city," for such ^the lamasery is, and taken to 
our rooms. 



Lodging in the " Forbidden City " 

The building in which we are quartered is of 
stone and mud, joined in among many others of 
similar appearance. The lower floor is dark, damp 
and foul, but the one above is quite agreeable. 
The large room in front has two small windows, a 
board floor, plastered or cement walls, and a ceil- 
ing made of poles five or six inches in diameter. 
The interior was decorated with dozens of the 
most grotesque paintings, which really are not 
without artistic merit. Several large posts which 
help support the floor above were decorated with 
colored scenes. The pictures are of Buddha, ele- 
phants. Chinamen, etc., etc. A storeroom and 
kitchen furnish our suite of rooms. Just across 
the hall is a large room which is the holy place 
where the idols are. It is locked. This also is 
rich in mural decorations. A stairway, or ladder, 
leads to the flat roof, from which we can get a 
splendid view of the Holy City. A remarkable 
thing this, our being lodged in the lamasery. A 
few years ago it would have cost a man his life to 
visit the city, and much later it would have been 
death to have tried to enter, or even exhibit too 
much curiosity about it. Doubtless we are the 
first foreigners ever to be lodged in this holy 
monastery. The clever official realized that it was 

109 



no A Message from Batang 

not the safest place possible, and had two soldiers 
with guns guarding the door, to see that no 
harm came to us ; a soldier also accompanies us 
about the city. After getting as comfortably settled 
as possible, we went for a walk through the la- 
masery. We met with no resistance, and visited 
the courtyards of many temples. After lunch we 
went out for a stroll through the city of Litang 
proper ; we found it arranged somewhat in the 
form of a circle, or ring, hollowed in the centre 
with the rude houses scattered about. First there 
is the lamasery, then the business section, which 
is half Chinese and half Tibetan, and then the 
strictly Tibetan portion. It began to rain, but we 
kept on in spite of it and the fierce Tibetan dogs 
which threatened to devour us. Though we are 
14,000 feet it is not cold, and we felt little effect 
of the altitude — only tired quite easily. It was 
nearly dark when we returned after a walk of two 
or three miles, and we had seen much of this 
picturesque and interesting place. 

June 9th. 
Our quarters are in the centre of the Holy City, 
which is composed wholly of temples and resi- 
dences of the lamas. There were two large build- 
ings with domes made of copper, plated with gold. 
The largest measured thirty by fifteen feet. In 
addition to these were ten or twelve large spires 
on each roof, six or eight feet high, and two feet 
in diameter. The plating was of heavy, beaten 



Lodging in the " Forbidden City " ill 

copper, covered with a layer of gold about one-sixth 
of an inch in thickness. The buildings are of stone 
and mud, forming a kind of cement, which is very 
tenacious. Most are square or rectangular, two or 
three stories high, and jumbled together without 
regard to order or convenience of streets. From 
every roof flutter many mani flags, and various 
ornaments. There are many great barrel-shaped 
things, resembUng a skirt of coarse yak hair, hung 
from hoops. I was unable to obtain its religious 
significance. The smoke was still rising from the 
morning sacrifices, sent up from many housetops. 
The hum of lamas repeating the prayers, and the 
ringing of bells used in worship, broke the still- 
ness of the morning. I made several photos from 
the roof, half expecting the lamas to set up a 
vigorous protest, but was not molested. 

"We sent our cards to the official, asking for an 
escort through the temples. An interpreter soon 
came, and accompanied us about the buildings. 
"We learned that we really were the first foreigners 
to be allowed to take up our quarters in the sacred 
city, and that only lately had the Chinese been 
permitted to stay within. We first went to the 
large temple where the abbot lives. "We entered a 
massive gate, and found ourselves in a great court- 
yard in front of the main building. It is a massive, 
stone affair, with great golden roof and spires. 
There is a large portico in front, with great wooden 
pillars, and large curtains of yak hair suspended 
from above. The walls of this porch were painted 



112 A Message from Batang 

with idols, the wheel of life, Buddha and many- 
things pertaining to Buddhism. The ceiling had 
once been covered with silken tapestries, which now 
hung in threads and rags, the building being 
about five hundred years old, but in a good state of 
preservation. The massive door was well barred, 
and braced with great plates of iron, and hinges 
and hoops of the same metal. This was crudely 
but beautifully inlaid with gold, and gorgeous 
colors, and gold leaf liberally used. At our guide's 
command the door was opened, and we stepped 
within the Holy Temple, perhaps the first for- 
eigners that had ever stepped within. The scene 
before us was strange, yet wonderful indeed. The 
only light that came in was from the door which 
was left open, and the great dome above. The 
corners of the room were as dark almost as a cave. 
At first sight the room seemed a great forest of 
draped pillars. By counting I found there were 
eighty — ten rows one way and eight the other. 
They measured about fifteen feet apart, and were 
twelve to eighteen inches in diameter. This made 
the size of the room about 140x180 feet. The posts 
under the dome were about thirty feet high, the 
others fifteen or eighteen feet in height. These 
posts were nearly square, and covered with long 
silken, woolen and linen draperies. They had been 
of many bright hues, but time and dust had reduced 
them to rags in many cases. Many scrolls were 
hanging, made of silk or fine linen, and painted 
with the pictures of various idols, and symbols of 



Lodging in the " Forbidden City " 113 

Buddhism. Some were five by six feet wide, and 
ten to twelve feet long. Across the width of the 
room on either side of the posts ran rows of cush- 
ions, twenty in all, some two feet square, made of 
coarse material. On these sat lamas muttering 
prayers, counting beads, and turning small, hand 
prayer- wheels. All of three walls and part of the 
fourth were covered with great paintings, well 
done, in bright lasting colors ; but many were ob- 
scene, and would not be allowed to enter the United 
States ordinarily. Only by the light of matches and 
candles could we see them at all. On the side oppo- 
site the door were numerous idols of different sizes 
and kinds. Many were gilded, and had silken robes 
thrown about them. There were brass and copper 
vessels used for burning cedar bushes, as well as many 
butter lamps. We spent much time in this room 
observing, taking measurements and writing notes. 
Two flights of stairs took us out upon the roof 
among the spires and domes of the building. Here 
we got a most magnificent view of the city of 
Litang, and I did not wonder that this spot was 
chosen by the abbot as his headquarters, and that 
he had built his great temple here. We were 
now led around through one or two dark rooms 
and halls to a dirty black curtain, hanging in 
front of a door. This was raised, and we were 
ushered into a dark room, where there was a soli- 
tary lama sitting on a divan. It was hardly neces- 
sary for us to be told that this was the great abbot 
of Litang. His excellency rose to greet us, and 



1 14 A Message from Batang 

received us quite cordially, but with the dignity 
one might expect from such a man. After much 
exchanging of polite bows we were seated before 
him, though he himself did not descend from his 
couch. The only light which entered came through 
small windows behind the abbot, so it was difficult 
to see his face until accustomed to the light. We 
found him to be a fleshy man, of about two hun- 
dred and twenty-five pounds. He was thirty-eight 
years old (in this present existence). He had 
closely cropped hair, and a fat round face. His 
nose and mouth large, his skin brown, or copper- 
colored. He seemed to be a jovial, good-natured 
feUow, and laughed softly with us several times 
during the visit. He spoke in a low, pleasant 
voice, and only Tibetan, and was not a specimen 
that would cause one to rave over the " cultured 
lamas." He wore a heavy robe of dark red, 
coarse, woollen cloth, thrown around his body, 
leaving the right arm bare. In his hand he held a 
string of wooden beads, which he ran through his 
fingers constantly. Before him was a low table, 
on which were several large, brass pots, and other 
vessels of earthenware. Buttered tea was quickly 
produced, and for a time we sat drinking and talk- 
ing with the abbot under his great golden roof. 
"We got some interesting information from him, 
concerning some rare and sacred Tibetan books. 
One, the Kang-gyur, is here. The blocks for print- 
ing it are kept in this monastery. Formerly the 
Tan-gyur was here, but had been removed to Derge. 



Lodging in the " Forbidden City " 115 

There is a story that it took seventy mules to carry 
the blocks. The first blocks are about three hun- 
dred years old, and when the book is printed it 
comprises 3,700 lamas, who have been ordained in 
Lassa, and who, including the attaches of the tem- 
ples and students who came here to study, number, 
it is said, at times 10,000, occupying the Holy City. 
Our stay permitted us to take stray glimpses 
around the room. IsTear him, on his left, were a 
few shelves with glass fronts, enclosing idols. "We 
feel sure we are the first white men received by 
his holiness. A vase of artificial paper roses stood 
near by. The sides of the room were covered with 
scrolls, tapestries, paintings and idols. Not caring 
to tire his excellency, we remained only ten or 
twelve minutes. We bowed ourselves out of his 
august presence at last, very much elated at the 
success which had fallen to us this day, in not only 
entering the sacred buildings but in meeting the 
abbot himself. We now went through a very 
interesting room, in which were a number of odd 
and curious things ; guns, swords, spears, teapots, 
etc., etc. It would have been a paradise for a lover 
of curiosities. A visit was now paid the kitchen of 
the lamas. There were a number of immense 
vessels here, but what interested me most were four 
huge, brass kettles, built into the stone furnace 
after the fashion of a Chinese stove. After meas- 
urement they were found to be eighty inches in di- 
ameter, and about thirty-six inches deep, by one 
inch in thickness, used for preparing food for the 



1 1 6 A Message firom Batang 

3,700 lamas. "We went outside through Litang, and 
climbed a small hill, where we could get a good 
view of both the sacred city and the business sec- 
tion which adjoins it. 

This part of town is a kind of double triangle 
with the bases together. The upper half is occu- 
pied by the lamasery, and is surrounded by a wall 
of stone and mud, not very substantial to be sure, 
but still one which it was not safe for unbelievers 
to try to pass a few years ago. In the other por- 
tion, the houses are so closely joined together that 
it is hard to distinguish one from the other. The 
streets are merely passageways, in many places 
about three feet wide. One can walk over most of 
the city on the housetops. We then went off 
down into the plain to the strictly Tibetan sec- 
tion. There are two large buildings, which were 
formally the residences of tusas or kings. The 
thing that lured us off down there was a house 
where a Grand Lama had been born. We finally 
found it, a dirty, tumble-down place, much like the 
usual Tibetan house. It was two or three hundred 
years ago when this great man was born. Four 
others of smaller rank found birth here also, as is 
indicated by great wooden blocks like dumb-bells 
which were suspended over the door. The size 
varies, showing that all were not of the same rank. 
The down-stairs room is used as a stable, is dark 
and filthy, and had a cow in it at the time of our 
visit. The Dalai Lama was born in this room. 
We climbed up a flight of rickety stairs to the next 



Lodging in the " Forbidden City " 117 

floor, which is now used as a kind of lamasery. 
One room seemed to be a roosting place for 
chickens. A frisky, young dog kept up such a 
noise barking, we could scarcely think. We were 
now shown into a small, dark, dirty den where 
there were a lot of filthy idols and dusty books, 
mostly covered with nasty old draperies. The sun- 
light never enters, and had I not had a candle, I 
could not have seen a thing. The ugly old woman 
in charge wore huge silver plates, about eight 
inches in diameter, on the sides of her head. Our 
guide could give us no information. He was care- 
ful to explain that the lamas, who had lived some 
hundred years ago, had died before he was born, 
and that he did not know them personally. 

June 10th. 

All through the night I heard the constant drip 
of water from the long spouts leading from the flat 
roof. I was aroused by water leaking from the 
ceiling on my bed, and had to get up and move it. 
When we arose we found that it had been snow- 
ing also. It was stiU falling softly, but with the 
exception of the battlements of the temples, the 
roofs were free from it, as it melted as fast as it fell. 
We could not go on, so I sent my card to the official 
again, asking for an escort to the place where the 
sacred Kang-g3rar is printed. 

In a short time we started out through the mud 
and rain, and soon found ourselves in the courtyard 
of a dilapidated old temple. The yard was covered 



ii8 A Message from Ba tang 

with manure, and large, foul pools stood in the 
centre, made of water percolating through the ma- 
nure. In a small side room some lamas were print- 
ing pages from the great wooden blocks. They re- 
garded us with disfavor, but after some delay they 
yielded to the command of our escort, and un- 
locked the great doors, which as usual were iron- 
barred, inlaid with silver. The room into which 
we were shown looked like a great library. It was 
one hundred and eighty by sixty feet and twelve 
feet to the ceiling. Running across the room were 
ten rows of shelves, forty-two feet long, and ten 
feet high. The blocks were arranged in these 
shelves on their edges. Each row was divided into 
eleven sections of nine tiers each, making ninety- 
nine shelves to each case or row. Each shelf of the 
ninety-nine contained thirty-five to forty-five of the 
wooden blocks. As there are ten of the cases, it 
meant nine hundred and ninety shelves, and as there 
are about forty or more blocks to each shelf there 
are likely forty thousand blocks. Each block is 
made from a single slab of wood, average size 
twenty-eight by twelve by three-fourths inches. 
Each one is engraved with the raised Tibetan 
characters on both sides, and a border about one- 
fourth inch wide around the edge. The work is 
fairly well done, though roughly carved, the letters 
raised from three-eighths to one-half inches above 
the board. By weighing a board of the same size 
we found it to weigh about three catties. Based 
on this calculation the 40,000 blocks would weigh 



Lodging in the " Forbidden City " 119 

120,000 catties or 160,000 English pounds. The 
paper is made near Doaba, a lamasery to the south 
of Litang, and it takes thirty men three months to 
produce one copy of the book. The blocks are col- 
ored a dark red by the ink used for printing. The 
abbot himself told us these blocks were about three 
hundred years old. 

The lamas in charge here were the most uncivil 
and unfriendly we had yet met, and would give us 
but little information. They were not at all 
pleased to see us measuring and counting, and 
making notes of what we saw. A number of the 
printed pages were spread out on the floor to dry. 
The paper was rough, coarse, slightly brown, with 
uneven edges. Each sheet was twenty-seven by 
nine inches and printed on both sides. Some few 
had pictures of Buddha, but most were only the 
Tibetan characters. Each page had the lines run- 
ning lengthwise, eight lines twenty-two inches long 
to each page. The characters were one-half inch 
high. The pages are bound into a volume simply 
by laying them between two large wooden boards 
which serve as a cover to the whole, and then tied 
with a strip of rawhide. The Kang-gyur comprises 
one hundred and eight volumes, which is one of the 
sacred numbers of Buddhism. Each volume is 
about twenty-eight by eight by eight or twelve 
inches, the boards forming the back being one to 
two inches thick and often elaborately carved. 
Sometimes the edges of the pages are cut smooth, 
and colored, or decorated, with Tibetan symbols. 



120 A Message from Batang 

The possession of these blocks is one of the things 
which makes the Litang lamasery famous. 

After some hesitation and much delay we were 
permitted to go up-stairs. We entered through 
another massive door into a room that was so dark 
my candle scarcely was able to dispel the gloom 
sufficient to enable us to walk without stumbling. 
In front was an immense Buddha in a sitting pos- 
ture, and about ten feet high. All but the face was 
made of copper, heavily plated with gold. It sat 
on a great throne of the same material, while be- 
hind it was an elaborate background of beaten 
copper and gold. The idol was draped in fine 
silk-like veiling, vari-colored ; a golden crown 
was on its head. There were numbers of smaller 
idols, and many sacred books half hidden among 
the ancient hangings, but so darkened with age 
and dirt as to make it almost impossible to tell of 
what material or color they had originally been. 
We now climbed out on the roof and proceeded to 
measure it. We found it to be thirty feet 
long, seventeen feet wide and ten feet from the 
eaves to the comb. This was surmounted by three 
large spires which were six or seven feet high, 
and two or three feet in diameter. The ends of 
the roof were gabled, and each of the four corners 
were decorated with great, golden dragon heads 
very fierce looking. The roof is made of large 
sheets of copper riveted together, and plated 
heavily with gold. This is the roof under which 
the abbot lives. 




Kanger Building 




Principal Hall of the Litang Monastery 



Lodging in the " Forbidden City " 12 1 

"We now descended to the gallery surrounding 
the great room in the temple, and there saw an 
interesting sight. Seated on a throne near the 
centre of the room was the abbot himself, dressed 
in his flowing robes. Seated thus he was supposed 
to be Buddha, and was worshipped as such. Seated 
around him on the cushions amid the pillars were 
hundreds of lamas. All were sitting cross-legged, 
as Buddha was in the habit of doing. "We took 
up our stand in the rear, unobserved, and watched 
the peculiar performance. There was the hum of 
the priests as they chanted the prayers, then 
the slow, dignified clashing of cymbals, following 
the lead of their great lama. From darkened 
corners came the blare of trumpets at regular in- 
tervals. The scene was most weird, and caused 
the cold shivers to chase one another up and down 
my spine. As I watched I realized its significance, 
and knew they were worshipping this fat, lazy 
lama as a god ! We had watched the strange pro- 
ceeding for several minutes when some of them 
espied us among the shadows above. The trump- 
ets ceased, the cymbals came to a standstill, while 
an ominous silence reigned and all eyes were turned 
in the direction of the foreign infidels who had 
dared enter this sacred place, and watch the holy 
ceremony. We lost no time in beating a hasty 
retreat. For a moment a great hoarse cry arose 
from the throats of the lamas inside, then all was 
quiet, and we knew that worship was resumed. 
But I cannot forget that scene, and the sickening 



122 A Message from Batang 

feeling that crept about my heart as I watched it. 
We returned to our room where the soldier still 
kept guard. It was time to rest a while, and get 
ready for the start to-morrow. 



XI 

The Journey from Litang 

June 11th. 
The morning dawned fair, and we began to get 
busy to leave Litang. The mountains looked very- 
pretty in the morning sun, their summits showing 
clear and distinct above a layer of clouds. Our 
Ula came and we got the things started. We 
then went to the telegraph oflBlce to send a tele- 
gram to the friends at Batang. My horse was a 
very good animal, but extremely skittish, and I 
had to watch him carefully to prevent trouble. 
In the meantime a frisky young yak got on a 
stampede, and strewed our bedding about the 
plain, before it was finally recovered, and against 
his protest, made known by much grunting, was 
resaddled and reloaded and led on again. Once 
fairly started our road lay across the plain and over 
some low-lying hills, and a little valley strewn with 
great limestone rocks. Here were some hot springs, 
and crude bath-houses had been built for the use of 
the lamas of a near-by lamasery. "We were in need 
of a bath, so dismounted and went in. The little 
huts were of stone and cement, while a small bath- 
tub had been built in the ground with pieces of 
timber. The lime salts in the water had deposited 
on the wood, petrifying it, so that it was virtually 

123 



124 A Message from Batang 

a nice smooth bath-tub of solid stone. The water 
was so hot I had to get used to it by degrees. We 
enjoyed the " soak " for some time, and then pro- 
ceeded on our journey. The road now ran across 
a long stretch of the plain which was almost 
swampy. A small stream ran across it, in which 
I saw many small minnows, while at the river 
near by I saw baited hooks for fishing, indicating 
that there are fish even at the altitude of 14,000 
feet. 

After lunch we crossed the river and started 
up from the plain. The plain this side is of 
strange composition. At one place were immense 
deposits of stone about the size of a man's head. 
They were of flint, limestone and granite, chiefly, 
and worn smooth, but not rounded like those 
found in river beds. They appeared to have been 
ground together as in a miU. Where the stones 
had remained in contact rubbing together were 
little, cup-like depressions, more or less covering 
the stones, very shallow but quite distinct. We 
decided this must have been the moraines of a 
glacier. These rocks were scattered over quite an 
area, and were often in heaps and ridges many 
feet deep. There were also many stones which 
seemed to be clearly of volcanic origin, having 
been thrown up by some upheaval in times past. 
After crossing the river we entered upon a most 
interesting region. It was a long, gentle slope, 
strewn with large granite boulders. It was spread 
out fan-like at the bottom, gradually blending 



The Journey from Litang 125 

with the plam. It was at least miles wide at 
its base, but higher up it seemed to narrow to 
about one mile between high mountains. There 
could be no other plausible explanation of this 
than that it was the path of a great glacier. The 
boulders are strewn about without regard to kinds 
of stone, or lines of cleavage. They vary in size 
from that of a football to the size of a cottage 
dwelling. Their edges are not sharp and distinct, 
as they would be if they had been thrown directly 
to the plaiu from above or below. But they were 
worn smooth, somewhat resembling the rounded 
pebbles in a stream. In many places they were 
piled together in great heaps and nearly covered 
with earth. The bed of the stream was made 
entirely of them. Some of the larger ones were 
widely scattered over the grassy plain. It was 
impossible for them to have rolled down from the 
mountainsides. They are not steep enough, and 
too far away. The road continues to follow up 
this moraine. Kocks with distinct striae were 
plentiful. 

As my horse showed a tendency to wander oflP 
up the hillside instead of keeping the road, and as 
he seemed to have a little surplus energy, I let him 
go. So I went up on the side of a long ridge 
which ran parallel to the road. This ridge, which 
was four or five hundred feet above the road, 
seemed to be made up entirely of boulders and soil 
brought there by the glacier. One peculiar thing 
was that there were great streams of water running 



126 A Message from Batang 

just beneath the surface in many places. Some- 
times they came out of the ground, ran along ten 
feet or so, and then sank again. I could look down 
between piles of stones and see the water flowing 
along. Being some distance from the road I found 
it nearer to cross a pass than to return to the main 
line again. So I ascended to the top, which I'm 
sure was not far from 16,000 feet. As this was not 
on the road, I doubt if other foreigners have crossed 
it before me. From there I caught my last glimpse 
of the glittering spires of the golden-roofed lama- 
sery, some eighteen miles away. Strange to say I 
found the same kind of granite boulders on top of 
the pass. I now had to pick my way down the 
rock-strewn mountainside. At last I had to walk 
and lead my horse. However, I soon joined the 
road, and overtook the caravan which had stopped 
at a solitary rest-house in the valley. 

We unloaded and prepared to spend the night. 
The glacier that cut this valley must have been a 
gigantic one, and hundreds if not thousands of feet 
deep. Judging by the rocks so high up on the 
mountainsides I am of the opinion that this glacier 
has been intimately connected with the formation 
of the Litang plain. It seems that originally what 
is now the plain was a large basin with a bottom of 
oblique or vertical strata of shale, slate or clay. 
The outlet below may or may not have been closed 
at first, but probably was. The big glacier pushed 
its way down into the basin, and as the ice melted 
a lake was formed by the dammed up water. The 



The Journey from Litang 1 27 

melting ice deposited its soil and rock, at first far 
out in the basin, then nearer the edges it gradually 
ceased to exist. A valley at the upper end of the 
plain suggests the possibility of another glacier. 
Through this last valley flows the Li Kiver which 
in times past has been a much larger stream, and has 
assisted in bringing down material into the basin. 
On the north side of the valley are some peculiar 
ridges, which very much resemble sand dunes. 
As the ice melted the column of water was 
possibly so great as to finally burst through the 
gorge below, almost draining the lake. A bare 
sand plain was then left, and as the prevailing 
winds are from the south, the sand on the northern 
side was blown up on the hills, and gradually cov- 
ered with soil and grass. As a large part of the 
plain is marshy, it seems quite probable that until 
a few years ago part of the plain was covered with 
a lake. The bed rock, or primary soil, is mostly 
shale, slate, clay, etc. The area near the springs 
was of limestone, and evidently formed partly by 
volcanic action. The mountains to the south and 
west seemed mostly of granite. This will some 
time make an interesting geological study, but I 
can make only a few unscientific observations. 

While out walking we saw a number of Tibetans, 
hunting the peculiar grass insect which I mentioned 
the other day. It is the " Sprouting Grub." The 
men seek a grassy, level spot, and stoop down look- 
ing for the brownish sprout which protrudes above 
the earth. Their practiced eyes enable them to see 



128 A Message from Batang 

one very quickly. Each man is armed with a small, 
iron pick. When he spies a sprout he rushes for- 
ward with a shout, and buries his pick in the 
earth near it, and soon digs it up. I hunted 
for a long time before I finally was able to see any 
at all, and at last came away with four. The 
sprout springs from the centre of the head, and the 
root seems to fill the entire body of the worm. 
The insect is evidently some kind of a caterpillar, 
and from one to two inches long. The sprout is 
juicy, but the grub when cut is about the consist- 
ency of a sweet potato. These sprouts, worm and 
all, form a dish which the native and Chinese prize 
very highly. Three hundred grubs bring one 
rupee, or about twenty-five cents. 

I was busy writing when the servants came rush- 
ing in and excitedly announced that there were two 
great yellow birds outside. I hastily got my rifle 
and went out and saw what seemed to be two yel- 
low ducks. The wind was blowing hard, and my 
shot only seemed to make them fly across the 
stream to return again in a short time to see what 
was going on. Guns were new things to them. 
This time I was more successful and killed one. It 
was about the size of the ordinary tame duck. Its 
body was yellow, shading into spotted black near 
the tail with black tail feathers ; its head a lighter 
yellow, with black beak and one or two black 
bands around the neck ; the wings pure white 
beneath. On top near the body the feathers 
are small, soft and white; these shade into yel- 



The Journey from Litang 129 

low at the fore edge, a few short, gray feathers 
at the other edge, next to these white feathers 
in the middle section are a lot of long feathers, 
of a shining dark green color. The large feathers 
forming the tip are black. As we have been liv- 
ing on salt meat the last ten days this fresh bird 
was quite a welcome treat. 

June IMh. 
At Totang long before day our drivers were up 
wanting to start. It seems that the men are un- 
able to sleep well here in this altitude (about 15,000 
feet), and are only too anxious to get up and start. 
At last we got off after my horse had a spell of 
pitching and running. The valley was the same 
boulder stream valley as before, while the moun- 
tainsides were unusually rough and rocky from 
glacial action. This pass is over 16,000 feet, and is 
called the " Huang tu gong " or Desert Eidge. On 
top of the plateau were a few small lakes, one di- 
rectly on the top and the other a short distance 
down. For a number of miles it was the wildest 
and most weird looking place I had ever seen. On 
all sides were these great rocks, and barren peaks. 
They were too rough to hold much snow. It was 
cold, and the wind whistled keenly across the pass. 
Even though I had on heavy clothing I got quite 
cold. The whole area seemed to be the dumping 
ground of nature after she had finished making the 
earth. It seemed as if all the material not wanted 
in making the mountains, etc., had been deposited 



130 A Message from Batang 

here, witliout reference to order or appearance. 
Until recently it is said to have been robber in- 
fested. This seems to be its only practical use. A 
body of soldiers was stationed here all the time to 
exterminate the robbers. 

The road gradually descended for some miles 
into a little valley, through which a stream was 
flowing in a northerly direction (all others have 
run south so far). This steep slope seems to be 
the terminus of a glacier. It is several hundred 
feet deep, and seems to be made up entirely of 
glacial debris. The apparent path of the glacier is 
four or five miles in some places. From the Li 
Eiver, which is the western end of the moraine, to 
the top of the pass is forty or fifty li ; from here 
to the eastern extremity about thirty or forty li. 
It seems as if this pass had been the dividing point 
of the glacier, and that the debris had been worn 
down from near here. If so there must have 
originally been a range here 30,000 to 35,000 feet 
in height ! Altogether it was a terrible pass, and 
one which you must come to dread more and more 
the oftener you cross it. After lunch we descended 
into a road which runs into the Lamaya Yalley. 
We found pines and cedars again, the first trees we 
had met with since leaving Shingola. As we 
descended the valley it became more beautiful, and 
the vegetation more luxuriant. Various tree shrubs 
and wild flowers made it look most beautiful after 
the dreary pass. It was also quite hot — a sharp 
change after the bitter cold. 



The Journey from Litang 131 

Towards evening we came to the Httle village of 
Lamaya. It is situated on the right banks of the 
stream, between hills which look bleak and barren, 
though grassy. Here we saw the first cultivated 
land since leaving Litang, a pleasant thing to see 
again. As we came near the village we saw a 
magnificent range of mountains ahead to the north- 
west. They are the roughest and shortest peaked 
we had seen, and must range from 18,000 to 25,000 
feet, as best I can estimate. Mount Gehnyi is at 
the southern end of the range. We stopped in a 
Tibetan house, built of mud and stones, and two or 
three stories high. The first floor is used as a 
stable, and was full of animals. Our room is just 
above. The walls are of mud and full of vermin. 
Every now and then a bug drops down, or else 
knocks off part of the mud ceiling on us. There is 
a single small hole in the roof through which light 
and air enter. The room is innocent of chairs and 
tables. I am seated in a kind of bench made by 
placing a door on some leather bags of rice, and 
have my two suit cases arranged as a table. My 
only light is a flickering candle. Such is the place 
where I pass the night. The altitude is near 
13,000 feet. 

June 13th. 

We enjoyed a late sleep, as our Ula had not 
arrived. The little mud hole was not altogether 
uncomfortable, and we felt quite refreshed. The 
road ran up quite a steep ravine which was of clay 
and shale and slate. The land was treeless, and 



132 A Message from Batang 

shaded off into grassy knolls above. Evidently 
some great glacier had made its way down the 
valley. There are a number of distinct ridges of 
stone or earth across it from one side to the other, 
with the exception of where the stream flows 
through. There are six of them at quite regular 
intervals, and fairly uniform in appearance. It 
seems as if this had been the remains of the gla- 
cier ; each ridge being where the glacier had reached 
and melted during the summer. Another thing 
is a large area of hot, gassy springs. Some have 
built up a base of solid rock several feet high, and 
bubble out on top of this. Another interesting 
thing is the large number of mani mounds. I 
counted 217 from four to twelve feet high. They 
were pyramidal, arranged in a row, extendiug 
along the road which ran obliquely across the valley. 
The body of each was made of sod, while there 
was a layer of finely carved mani stones on the 
outside. The land is not cultivated here, and it is 
said there is some cause or command of the lamas 
that it must not be used. Still it is 12,000 feet high. 
Having left the beaten road we had some diflB.- 
culty in getting down to the main line again, where 
runs the Rati River. We now followed up the 
stream, and we passed a large drove of Tibetan 
snow cock, but the soldier was somewhere else 
with my gun. We soon stopped at the rest-house 
which is the end of the stage for that day. We 
were thoroughly tired and hungry. I am of the 
opinion that the traveller in a high altitude should 



The Journey from Litang 133 

eat often and lightly. He seems to get quite faint 
if he goes long past the usual time, or even until 
the usual time, without food. This rest-house is sit- 
uated a few li from the magnificent Mount Gehnyi. 
It has snow above 17,000 feet. In one place is a 
great glacier, apparently several hundred feet deep, 
and extending some distance back up the mountain. 
I could see great crevices in the ice with my glasses. 
It had a greenish color where it had broken and 
melted off. The whole valley gives many evidences 
of glacial formation. This peak is a wonderfully 
magnificent one. It stands out almost alone like a 
great sentinel. The sides in many places are quite 
steep, but there seems to be plenty of places where 
one could make an ascent if he cared to brave the 
dangers of the snow, ice and altitude. 

A mountain storm swept down the mountain 
while we were eating, filling the air with dust, and 
lowering the temperature several degrees. "We 
went out for a walk, and I took my gun along 
hoping to get some more fresh meat. I saw only 
some rabbits and pigeons, after an extended trip 
through the woods and underbrush. About dark 
as I was coming back, at the foot of a great cliff of 
slate limestone, and a peculiar gray marble, an ante- 
lope sprang out of the brush up the mountainside. 
A rifle shot caused it to hobble on a few steps and 
stop, while I tried again and found my gun empty. 
When I had recovered from my surprise the ani- 
mal was gone. Somebody, evidently the soldier 
who had been carrying the gun, had removed the 



134 A Message from Batang 

cartridges leaving me four or five less than I 
thought I had. To say I was discomfited would 
be putting it mildly. I returned and reloaded and 
went back to the gorge, but it was too dark to see 
or attempt to follow it up the steep cliif . So I lost 
my meat after all. 

June Ij^th. 

As we started we saw a deserting soldier who 
had been captured, and preparations were being 
made to torture him, before taking him to Litang 
where his ears will be pierced with arrows, and 
he, perhaps, beheaded. The clouds lay low, and 
several showers struck us. Once I caught sight of 
the end of a glacier, quite low down the mountain. 
It looked like a huge cliff of white limestone, and I 
could hardly believe it was ice. It looked to be 
nearly 1,000 feet thick, and is about half-way be- 
tween our starting point and where we stop for the 
night, Sanba. "We saw 142 more big black tents 
of the nomads on the plains, with many cattle and 
yak grazing. There are no trees to be seen near 
and the region might be called a " yelping wilder- 
ness." 

The village of Sanba consists of a half dozen sod 
Tibetan houses, surrounded by manure piles higher 
than they are. Though the altitude is over 14,000 
feet there is an attempt at cultivating a few small 
garden plots with indifferent success. Across the 
valley opposite is a huge snow-covered mountain, 
which appears to be 22,000 feet. It has the big- 
gest deposit of snow and ice that I have yet seen. 



XII 

A Lonely Grave 

JuTie IJfth. 
Near the little stream a short distance below 
the miserable huts is a solitary grave. It bears the 
single inscription on the marble slab: ""William 
Soutter, missionary to the Tibetans, died ISTovem- 
ber, 1898." This is also repeated in Chinese and 
Tibetan. The grave is built up with sod and 
stones, three or four feet high. The grave looks 
pathetic in its loneliness, and in this dreary wilder- 
ness. It tells the final chapter of a life given to 
the Master's cause in Tibet. In company with 
another he was taken sick with fever while en 
route from Batang. They stopped in a miserable, 
dirty, filthy, gloomy Tibetan house where his life 
at last ebbed out. I visited the house, and am not 
surprised that a sick man died there. The lone 
companion buried his friend as best he could, and 
went on his way. I could not help feeling a sense of 
loneliness and sadness come over me as I stood by 
this lonely grave. It is one of the outposts of the 
conquering army of our Master, and marks the 
resting place of one of His pioneers. All honor to 
those who perish in attempting to clear the way 
that others may follow them, to lay the foundation 
for others to build lupon. I cannot help thinking 

135 



136 A Message from Batang 

of the lonely grave at the edge of the plain. Or- 
dinarily such things do not have any effect on me, 
but this I must confess causes chilly sensations to 
creep over me. It is in a most wild, weird, dreary 
spot. The lofty, snowy Gehnyi stands as a great 
sentinel over it. Then there is the desolate valley 
below ; on this side, the barren, rocky hills. In the 
distance are great, flinty, cruel mountains. 

It is three days' hard travel to Batang, and four 
to Litang, across great, awe-inspiring passes. The 
regions between those places are almost unpopu- 
lated, and great wastes of land between. The little 
stream, passing a few feet away, keeps up a mourn- 
ful dirge, while the wind sighs across the plains 
and among the rocks, like the wailing of a lonely 
spirit. The wild-eyed yak graze near by, snorting 
and grunting when they suddenly see the white 
stone. The harsh barking of fierce Tibetan dogs 
breaks the stillness, and at times yelping of a wolf 
comes across the plain. The lonely eagle soars far 
above, while occasionally the hoarse croak of a 
crow is heard. The wandering nomad pitches his 
tent near by while the wild Tibetan herdsman 
rushes by on his shaggy pony. Many months 
sometimes pass before a white man stops at the 
sight of the grave, and if he does not actually take 
off his hat, he feels like it. The sight of this soli- 
tary grave causes a man to pause and reflect that 
this too is more than likely to be his lot, if he re- 
mains long in this part of the country. But I'm 
glad to remember that though the grave is a lonely 




Mr. Soutter's Grave at Samba 




Headman at Samba 



A Lonely Grave 137 

one, the soul of him who sleeps there is not lonely. 
He doubtless enjoys the companionship of the 
choicest spirits, and needs not to be pitied. Still 
his grave stands as a great landmark in a heathen 
land, as a mute testimonial to the statement that 
" greater love hath no man than this. " May thy 
bones rest in peace, O servant of God, and may 
your lonely grave inspire those who follow you to 
fight harder, and with clenched teeth enter the 
conflict to remain to the end. O my Master, if it 
is Thy will that I fill a lonely grave in this land, 
may it be one that will be a landmark, and an in- 
spiration to others, and may I go to do it willingly, 
if it is Thy will. 



XIII 
Above the Clouds 

June 15th. 
Otje TJla horses were fairly good, but the yak 
were the wildest creatures we had had, quite in 
keeping with the place. As we neared the top of 
Sanba pass we were enveloped in fogs and clouds. 
It is over 16,000 feet, quite cool, and snow scattered 
up and down the pass for some distance. Passing 
an immense mani mound on top, we started down 
the steep slope, so steep I had to walk and lead my 
horse. When we had finally descended into the 
valley we stopped for dinner and to enjoy the view. 
This is the great Da So valley. The scenery is said 
to be some of the finest in the world. On all sides 
rise great limestone mountains, many thousands of 
feet high, the sides, almost vertical, forming a kind of 
canyon. They rise in some places fully 4,000 feet 
above the valley, and to an altitude of 18,000 feet or 
more. In some places great bluffs rise almost perpen- 
dicular for half this distance. The sides in most 
places are not smooth, but jagged, rocky, and rough 
almost beyond description. Great ravines are in the 
hillsides, and great caves yawn at the travellers far 
below in the valley. The tops of the cliffs termi- 
nated in great peaks, barren and rough, which 
often rose hundreds of feet above the rest of the 
mountains. Sometimes great forests clung to the 

138 



Above the Clouds 139 

mountainsides for a thousand feet or more, and 
they were absolutely bare the rest of the way, not 
a blade of grass, or a drop of snow or water to be 
seen. The cliffs were often vari-colored, and again 
were of blue or turquoise color looking like a stone 
set in a green setting. Some places they were 
light enough to be mistaken for snow or ice at a 
distance. A rushing river, the Da So, ran through 
the valley, blending its music with that of the 
birds. 

It was truly a fairy scene in some respects, but 
grand and sublime. I have never seen anything to 
equal it. The Yangste gorges were as nothing. 
In one place I saw a gorge in the mountain, 3,000 
feet above us, which would have been equal to any 
of those on the Yangste, and then had room to 
spare. We were 3,000 feet below, and then 14,000 
feet above the sea level. We stopped for lunch, 
and a fire was made in the open, and after an hour 
our yak came. Two or three had evidently run 
away, upsetting things terribly, while one gave an 
exhibition of what he could do by running through 
a lot of brush with some bedding, tearing it badly, 
while we could only look on and smUe (?). 

After we had ridden about two hours we crossed 
the river, and up a small slope, keeping all the 
while a sharp lookout for the friends who were to 
meet us. Suddenly I saw two black figures ahead 
with white hats. I gave a shout, and urged my 
pony on. They saw us, too, and then there was a 
puff of smoke» a report from a rifle, and then another 



140 A Message from Batang 

as a salute to us. I hurried on and dismounted, 
met the two men, and when we had made ourselves 
known, found ^them to be Mr. Muir of the China 
Inland Mission who came to meet Mr. Edgar, and 
Mr. Ogden of our mission who came to meet me. 

It was a simple but joyful meeting for us two, 
after we had been anticipating it for two years or 
so. We came up to the inn and had tea, then later 
Mr. Ogden and I went for a walk until dark, and 
have been putting in the time talking. This is a 
beautifully mild place. A valley such as one may 
dream of, and read about for a lifetime, and never 
see it or its equal. I could not have picked out a 
more picturesque valley on the road. I am more 
than glad to have the privilege of enjoying a few 
hours in this beautiful spot. I am delighted to see 
friends again, even though they are strangers in a 
way, yet we have planned and thought of this 
day for many long months, even years, and now 
that it is about to be consummated it is hard to 
realize it. To-morrow we hope to cross the last 
high pass, and then be in the Batang Yalley 
where a long, steep descent will carry us at last 
into the city of Batang, the goal I have aimed for 
so long. 

JuTie 16th. 

After a long, steady climb we reached the top of 
the Da So pass. It is said to be over 17,000 feet. 
Though our horses went slowly, and rested often, 
they showed no special difficulty in crossing the 
mountain. Great limestone peaks rose much higher 



Above the Clouds 141 

than the pass, giving the place a most desolate 
look. It was pretty cold up there, and a small 
lake near the top had ice on it. It was doubtless 
easily several hundred feet higher than any we had 
yet crossed. Down, down we went among pine and 
oak forests, thousands of feet down, so that when we 
finally stopped for the night we were about 6,000 
feet or more below the summit. The road ran 
around steep bluffs and startling precipices, and 
through great forests of moss-covered trees. We 
all walked down the steep hillside about thirty li 
farther, to a Tibetan inn near a hot spring. It is 
warmer here than any place since leaving Ta chien 
lu, and is about 10,000 feet, I suppose. We brought 
our beds up on the housetop, under a kind of shed, 
and made preparations to be comfortable. We are 
about thirty U from Batang, and to-morrow shall 
reach the end of my long journey. I took a bath, 
and washed off some of the dirt and accumulations 
of the trip. This gave me a chance to put on lighter 
and more decent clothing for the triumphal entry 
to-morrow. 



XIY 

Batang at Last 

June 17th. 

We practically slept in the clouds, and towards 
morning I had to cover myself with a rubber sheet 
to keep out the damp. We slept late, and while 
eating breakfast Dr. Shelton arrived to give me a 
welcome. After some delay we made the start, 
and rode down the valley together. The road was 
steep, and ran continually down, down. We fol- 
lowed the stream along the edge of the high preci- 
pice, and through great forests. The scenery was 
beautiful, though it lacked the snowy mountains. 
Shortly we came in sight of the city, situated in 
the valley below. It is a bunch of mud houses, ir- 
regularly thrown together. This then was the 
place I had been heading for so long. Soon we 
caught sight of Dr. Shelton's two little girls, Dorris 
and Dorothy, who had come to meet me on their 
donkeys, and I was glad enough to see them. We 
then rode on down alongside fields of wheat and 
barley, entered the city, and rode down the slip- 
pery, stony street. 

We rode to Dr. Shelton's house where I met 
Mrs. Shelton, who gave me such a royal welcome 
as would almost repay one for the long trip. After 
a few minutes, we went to Mr. Ogden's house, and 

142 



Batang at Last 143 

met his wife, a cliarming little woman who gave 
me a most cordial welcome. Everybody went to 
Dr. Shelton's for dinner, and we had a most excel- 
lent time. To say it was a treat to me was to 
express it mildly. It was a regular home dinner, 
the best I have eaten since leaving — well for a long 
time. It was a treat to be with these good people — 
Kansans and Kentuckians. They were my people, 
and I never felt so much at home as I did with 
them, since coming to China at least. Well, the 
dinner was great, and I enjoyed every minute of it. 
We made a holiday out of the rest of the day, 
and were about as happy a bunch as you could find 
even in the homeland, and it was hard to realize 
that I was so far from " anywhere." It had taken 
a month and a half to reach Kankin from home. 
There I was unavoidably detained for nearly five 
months, and after making the start from Nankin 
I was four months (minus one day) of actual trav- 
elling to Batang. Even then I made a remarkably 
quick trip from J^ankin, so every one says, as I 
reached here nearly a month before they thought I 
would. It was a long, hard journey, but I managed 
to keep well, and happy and strong through it all, 
and reached my station without serious accident or 
trouble. I had no difiiculty with the altitudes, eat- 
ing and sleeping without discomfort. I feel I did 
not do this in my own strength, but that He who 
said, " Go and I will be with you always " was 
with me, and strengthened and protected me. To 
Him I give the praise and thanks. 



144 ^ Message from Batang 

After a bit I came over to my apartments to un- 
pack a little. I have two splendid rooms in the 
same building with the dispensary and the chapel, 
a study and a bedroom. They are clean, light, 
and well ventilated, on the second floor, overlook- 
ing a roaring mountain stream that rushes noisily 
by. I am now installed in a mud house, with the 
task of getting two languages and a dialect as the 
next proposition. The stable and hog-pens are be- 
low my room, and at night I am lulled to sleep by 
the tinkle of the bells on the mules and horses, and 
by the roar of the stream a few feet away. But 
I'm very thankful for being here, and hope that in 
some way I may bring some light into the dark- 
ened lives of these poor people here, whom our Sa- 
viour died to save. I am highly pleased with the 
rooms, and think I shall be quite satisfied here. 
Dr. Shelton and Mr. Ogden quite thoughtfully had 
some furniture made, and the rooms papered. The 
good women had put towels, chairs, rugs, a cot, 
and a vase of flowers on a table, a most pleasing 
touch given to it all by their hand. 

It is hard to realize that my long journey is over. 
To-morrow is four months since leaving ITankin. 
I have had a most strenuous trip, and rapidly, too. 
I have crossed China and part of Tibet. I have 
crossed some exceedingly great passes and seen 
some of the most wonderful scenery in the world. 
I have passed dangerous rapids on frail boats, and 
done several strenuous stunts. Through it aU the 
good Master has protected me, and I give Him 



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Batang at Last 145 

thanks, and owe it all to Him. He has answered my 
prayers, in a marvellous way, to reach the field of my 
choice, and now that I am here I hope to prove 
worthy of His love and blessing. I give Him 
thanks and credit for it all, and want Him to use 
my life here as He sees best for the advancement 
of His cause in this needy part of the earth. 

June 18th. 
Only in Batang one day ! A fellow might have 
a right to a " gone " feeling, after getting out 
here. But the sun shines, the grass is green, friends 
are true, and God is overhead; so all is well. 
After breakfast we took a look around the brick 
kiln, where the doctor is burning his brick pre- 
paratory to building by and by. "We all went 
to Mr. Ogden's for dinner, an unusually good 
one, which made me feel quite at home again. I 
am more and more pleased with the place and 
the prospects. I am very thankful for being here, 
and would not exchange mission stations with 
any living man. Had I selected my own co- 
workers I could not have been better pleased. 
I met to-day one of the ambassadors from 
l!^epaul to China. He is on his way back from 
Pekin, having been some two years on the road 
going and coming. He gave us a lot of infor- 
mation about E'epaul and invited me to visit 
him there, saying he would have the Mahara- 
jah give me a permit to enter, and send ele- 
phants to meet me, twelve ordinary stages from 



146 A Message from Batang 

the railroad — three ofl&cial stages. He lives at 
Gorkha. He told us about tiger hunting on ele- 
phants in cages. He says that Europeans are 
more welcome in Lassa than the Chinese, and 
that the Tibetans would be glad to throw off their 
yoke and fight the Chinese. He will take fifty- 
two days to Lassa from here, and thirty-three 
from there to ll^epaul. He is of high rank at 
home, very near the Maharajah. I have been but 
little in my " home " to-day, but now I am here 
with the stream roaring outside and the tinkle of 
a donkey bell somewhere in the distance. It is 
cool and pleasant, and everything lovely and the 
goose hangs high. 

June 19th. 
Slept so soundly had to be wakened for break- 
fast. Then we went for a ride down to the ruins 
of the old monastery. It is only a mass of ruined 
mud walls. It must have been an immense thing 
in its glory before it fell into the hands of the 
Chinese. (The outside walls enclose nine acres.) 
The great courtyard is now being used as a drilling 
ground for soldiers, about 1,200 being here now. 

June Wth. 
We all had a pleasant service together. The 
Lord's supper was observed in the usual way, 
and it was a spiritual uplift to meet thus together. 
After services the Ogden family came to the 
Sheltons', and we all had another splendid meal 
together. The afternoon was spent in singing 



Batang at Last 147 

familiar h3rmns, in wMch we all took part and 
enjoyed very much. 

June ^Ist. 
Have been developing photos to-day, and have 
some very interesting pictures. It has been a 
pleasant day, and I feel quite at home in my new 
surroundings. To-day is a great feast day with 
the Tibetans. So Mrs. Shelton's Tibetan woman 
invited us out to see them a while. "We went 
across the river to a tent among many, half hidden 
among the trees and bushes. There were six Tib- 
etan women, dressed in their holiday clothes. 
Their hair hung down their backs in long black 
braids, tipped at the end with tassels of silk and 
gold. They wore gowns, the necks of which were 
profusely decorated with red, blue, green and yel- 
low bands. The waist was usually a bright red. 
They wore long, coarse, blue skirts; aprons of 
woollen cloth, brown, red and black trimmed 
with a kind of gold cloth were also worn. Gaily 
colored, heavy cloth Tibetan boots completed the 
costume. Long, silver earrings and bracelets were 
worn in the way of jewelry, also rings and neck 
clasps. "We were seated on rugs and cushions, 
at a low table about twelve inches high. Buttered 
tea and parched wheat were brought to us, and 
we indulged mildly, remembering that microbes 
do not readily succumb to the temperature obtained 
by boiling water at this altitude. A leather- 
headed drum hung in the tent door. A servant 
beat this and clanged cymbals at the same time, 



148 A Message from Batang 

while the women danced for us. It was an odd 
step, and the hands and body were peculiarly grace- 
ful as they kept motion to the time of the music. 
As it got so hot in the tent we moved to the 
shade of a few trees where some food was brought 
us. At last it got too warm, and we left and 
returned home. Another interesting thing to-day 
was the visit of the Da Kagi, the chief ambassa- 
dor to Pekin from Nepaul. This small country was 
conquered some one hundred and thirty years ago 
by the Chinese, and now they force them to carry 
tribute to the emperor every twelve years or so. 
The journey by sea and rail could be done in a 
very short time, but the long march across the 
Chinese dominion is to treat them as captives, im- 
press them with the littleness of their own country, 
and the vastness of China. The last ambassador 
made the journey in seven years, and lost one-half 
of his men on the way. So far only one of his 
retinue of fifty Nepaulese have died in this the 
third year. Upon leaving he told us all a friendly 
good-bye and later sent Dr. Shelton and myself 
each a Nepaulese pipe, or " Hookah." It is only 
found in Nepaul. It is of earthenware ; the bowl 
is filled with water, and a long straw connects 
from this to the smoker's lips. Tobacco is laid on 
like charcoal in the brazier, and a servant holds 
the whole thing while you smoke. The pipe bowl is 
made of a cocoanut beautifully carved, inlaid with 
silver and pearl. I prize it very highly as a sou- 
venir from Nepaul and a gift from the Da Kagi. 



Batang at Last 149 

June '22d. 

This morning the streets were filled with people 
watching the procession of Ula and riders of the 
Da Kagi starting for Lassa. Hundreds of animals 
bearing loads, with the yellow flag of the Chinese 
emperor, crossed the bridge and started on the 
road we are not allowed to travel. Altogether 
there were 800 animals, 650 for loads and 150 for 
riding. The whole country has been scoured for 
Ula, and to-night I miss the stamping and jingling 
bells from the stable below me. So the Nepaulese 
ambassador and suite have left, and we have only 
their gifts. 

To-day was the sixth anniversary of Mr. and Mrs. 
Ogden's wedding day. All the foreigners were 
invited there for dinner, and had a most delightful 
time, and everybody thoroughly enjoyed it. 

June 2Jfth. 

A week in Batang and still getting on fine. 
Everything quiet. My Tibetan landlady has been 
on a drunk, and been trying to talk Chinese. A 
fellow who evidently had an ax to grind came 
round to-day with a horse which he wanted to give 
Dr. Shelton to let him join the church. He was 
told that we didn't do business that way, and he 
went away sorrowing. One of our patients is a 
fellow with tuberculosis, who has come twenty-four 
days' journey for treatment. Poor fellow, I fear he 
won't get much medicine that can do him any good. 

Dr. Shelton and Mr. Ogden and I rode upon the 



150 A Message from Batang 

mountain to-day. The chief object was to find 
strawberries, or other fruit. We found lots of 
vines, both strawberries and raspberries, but no 
fruit, and but little prospect of any ripening. We 
had not been home long until we were told that a 
house had fallen down on some Tibetans, killing 
three and wounding some. Two came to the 
dispensary bruised badly, and we went to the scene 
of the wreck to see the other victims. One was a 
girl of ten or twelve, with bruises on the body and 
head. We found that a grandmother, mother and 
child had been killed by the falling walls. These 
rickety mud houses topple over at the slightest 
wind or storm. 

June ^7th. 
This morning the little handful of Christians met 
together in the chapel and sang hymns and praises 
to our Father. The Ogdens were with us for dinner, 
and as usual had a nice time together. After supper 
the courier arrived with the mail, which is the 
greatest excitement we ever have here. 

June 30th. 
Spent the morning writing and in the afternoon 
Dr. Shelton, Mr. Ogden and I went for a ride. 
After crossing a small pass we came in view of the 
Yangste, flowing at our feet, the same majestic, 
muddy stream, though reduced in size. It looks 
more like the Yangste than anything else ; how- 
ever its banks were precipitous and unscalable, while 
again it would be spread out over numerous gravel 



Batang at Last 151 

bars and islands. So I made the acquaintance of 
the mighty river again. For a thousand miles I 
traversed it on a steamer. For nearly another 
thousand miles in a house-boat. Then after skipping 
a thousand miles or more I see it again. Now it 
extends far up into the great Tibetan plateau, 
into that wonderful, mysterious country where the 
white man's foot has never trod. What wonderful 
mountains and valleys it traverses is only to be 
guessed at, until some hardy explorer has the 
strength, time and opportunity to wrest from it its 
enticing secrets. I returned to my " castle " which 
the Chinese call "High Fortress." I have just 
noticed that my house is on the official Lassa road, 
and that all caravans must pass my door on their 
way to that mighty city. 

July 1st. 
Am beginning to take hold of the dispensary 
work a little more now as Dr. Shelton and Mr. 
Ogden are going out for a trip soon, leaving all 
with me. Dysentery is beginning to come in now, 
so we may expect an early and hard siege of it. 

July Ifth. 
The nation's birthday. However we are a long 
way from any celebration of it. We had planned 
a little picnic among ourselves, but a heavy rain 
during the night put it out of the question. Though 
our attendance at church was small to-day, it was 
declared to be the best service we had had in Batang. 
I enjoyed it very much. I was able for the first 



152 A Message from Batang 

time to join in the singing of the Chinese hymns, 
and after service gave some Sunday-school cards to 
some children who were there, and managed to 
explain a little of what they meant. 

July 5th. 

Dr. Shelton and Mr. Ogden finished preparations 
for their trip south to-day, and by nine o'clock 
were off. I went with them out of town a short 
distance, and then returned to the dispensary to do 
a little work, I made up a few medicines for 
stock preparations. Tackled the dispensary alone 
this morning. Managed to get along very well. 
Started studying Tibetan to-day. 

Was awakened this morning by two Tibetan 
women knocking at my door. They had a baby 
with them which I learned was twenty days old. 
Its mother had been dead some time, and it was 
almost starved to death. It was little more than a 
living skeleton, and even then at death's door. It 
was wrapped in coarse, filthy rags with ashes cov- 
ering its body, evidently a dusting powder. It has 
most likely never been washed, at least it did not 
look it. It was a sight to bring the tears to my 
eyes. I know what is needed, but could not give 
it the attention required. I needed a hospital, a 
place to keep it, and see that it was fed and 
clothed properly. These things I did not have, 
and so gave it a dose of medicine and the women 
some direction which I knew would be disregarded, 
and turned the poor little thing away to die. 



Batang at Last 153 

July nth. 
At the close of the clinic this morning a fellow 
was brought in with a dislocated shoulder. He 
was in much pain. I gave him an H. M. C. 
tablet, and in a short time reduced it without pain. 
They knew nothing about dislocations, and so the 
thing was something to set them talking and prais- 
ing the foreign doctor. 

July 13th. 
Last night I was called to a case of opium sui- 
cide. I took my hypodermic and small electric 
battery, and went. It was a Tibetan who had 
been drinking and his mother was also drunk. 
They had raised some kind of a row, and he had 
taken opium. She was crying when I got there, 
and he was apparently unconscious. The battery 
soon caused him to cry "quit." Apomorphine 
brought out the opium, and when I left him two 
hours later he was a sicker and sadder man, and 
doubtless wiser. The old lady did some fancy ko- 
towing to me for my work. This morning the fel- 
low was up, sober and repentant. Another life 
saved by my being here. 

July 16th. 
Went out for a walk, and saw some interesting 
things. Saw a huge boulder pounded full of holes. 
The holes were apparently fresh, but no one seems 
to know about them ; they are attributed to devils. 
Found a clay tablet in a Tibetan " pagoda." It is 



154 -^ Message from Batang 

a small votive tablet such as are often seen, but the 
queer thing was that it was fresh, and perfumed 
with sandalwood oil. 

July 17th. 
During the clinic this morning a fellow came in 
who had been thoroughly spanked. There was a 
denuded area about five by six inches. The thigh 
was greatly swollen. He had gotten 1,000 licks 
on one leg only. My Tibetan teacher told me the 
Chinese and Tibetans were fighting twelve days 
from here, in the province of Derge. Eighty lamas 
killed including the head lama. The lamasery was 
at Sa Shu, and had over 600 lamas in it ; forty Chi- 
nese soldiers were also slain. 

July 19th. 
9 : 15 P. M. I have just witnessed a rather grew- 
some sight. To-day a slave woman belonging to 
my landlady died of syphilis, being nearly rotten. 
The Tibetan custom is to burn those who can afford 
it when they die, but the very poor are thrown into 
the river. Hearing that they were going to dis- 
pose of the body to-night, I got on the lookout. 
As it was raining and very muddy, I put on my 
rubber boots and storm coat, and watched from the 
darkness. They waited for some time. I could 
see several lamas, with the people of the house, 
sitting in the large room in front of mine. Finally 
some one evidently of importance came, probably 
a head priest. Soon after his arrival six or eight 



Batang at Last 155 

men came out in the court or hall between our 
rooms, and withdrawing a curtain which hung close 
to the wall, disclosed the naked body lying on a 
bed of rags. The lama then filled his mouth 
with some liquid, and squirted it over the face, 
neck, and limbs of the corpse. It was then raised to 
a sitting position, the calves flexed against the 
thighs, and the thighs against the abdomen, the 
arms folded and placed in front of the stomach. 
The head was then forced down, until the brow 
touched the knees, then a cord was wound around 
the body several times, using a great deal of force 
to draw it tight, and hold the corpse in position, 
much as we would strap a trunk. After the body 
had been thoroughly tied, it was put in a very 
small box, such as is used for carrying loads on 
donkeys. It had no lid. The body was lifted 
and put in the box, in a sitting position. It was 
scarcely wide enough for the hips to go in, so 
they jammed the body down as if it had been so 
much beef. After it had been pushed, crammed 
and worked into the box the head and shoulders 
still protruded above. The lama then took Tsamba 
and water, and put quite a lot on the back of the 
neck and head. A coarse, woollen rag was then 
thrown over it all and tied. One of the men swung 
the box with its ghastly contents over his shoulder, 
and lighted by a pine torch, they hurriedly trotted 
down the stairs and out on the street. During part 
of the ceremony, " Om Mani Padme Hum " was 
constantly chanted. I then hurried down the steps 



156 A Message from Bataiig 

just out of sight, and followed the light. They 
turned down towards the big river which flows be- 
low the monastery. I followed in the darkness, 
not caring to light my lantern, stumbled over 
rocks, splashed through irrigation ditches, and mud 
holes, trying to keep in safe range of the light, but 
not too close. Once I fell into quite deep water, 
but managed to keep on my feet. They hurried on 
towards the ruins of the old lamasery, turning to 
the left of the mani mounds, and the great mass of 
ruins, instead of going through the central road. 

As we neared the river I caught sight of some 
sneaking, cowardly dogs, worse than curs, that 
scented the body and were following; they dodged 
about just in the edge of the circle of light, like 
phantoms. When the men reached the great mani 
mound beside the stream, those with the torch 
went to a hollow tree and stopped, protecting their 
light. The man with the body, the priest, and one 
other proceeded to the riverside, and after a few 
minutes of mani muttering, tossed the box and its 
contents into the water, and wading out, threw 
rocks at it until it was caught by the foaming, rush- 
ing current, and carried away in the darkness. 
Yes! the body carried on into a rushing, angry, 
cold, dark stream, but what a much more terrible 
cold, dark river of death must the soul have been 
carried into ! As she entered the icy waters, there 
was no hope of a better land on the other side, such 
as we know about. She knew little or nothing of 
the Saviour who beckons to us from across the dark 



Batang at Last 157 

stream. She could not look forward to a happy 
resurrection with the Saviour, and loved ones who 
have gone before, as we can do. ISTo tears were shed 
when her soul departed, nor when her body was 
consigned to the chilly waters, unless perhaps her 
two motherless children were old enough to realize 
something of it, and weep over their loss. O God ! 
let me hope that in some way she received mercy 
at Thy hands, and that she has learned to know 
enough of the Saviour to escape the awful death. 

As the men finished their last sad rites, I hur- 
riedly retraced my steps to a safe place around the 
corner of the ruins, lighted my pocket lantern, and 
made quick time back to my room, arriving some 
time before they did, who perhaps were entirely 
ignorant of their observer. After they returned I 
stepped out of my room, and one of the fellows, 
who tries to be good-natured, came close enough to 
me for me to smell his breath, and I knew he had 
been drinking wine. So this is what takes place in 
the very house in which I live, and not only that but 
in the same building where our chapel and dispen- 
sary are. The very place where we try to tell of 
Jesus who died, and where we try to be an ex- 
ample of Him in His teaching and healing. God 
grant that we may soon bring the light into some 
of their darkened lives. 

As I sit here I cannot help but contrast this 
funeral with the loving care with which the 
mother and loved one is put away at home, and 
how often it is they regard the river of death as 



158 A Message from Batang 

only a parting line for a time, and expect to meet 
on the other side some day. I cannot rid my mind 
of the thought of the poor, naked body drifting 
down the rapids and on to cruel rocks, bruised and 
broken, frightening the fish from their haunts as it 
rolls along. The box was so frail it never floated 
half a mile with its burden before it was broken to 
pieces, and the body thrown out. 

I am also reminded of a poor little slave boy who 
came to the dispensary last Monday or Tuesday. 
He complained of his back hurting him, said he 
had been beaten by his master, but there did not 
seem to be anything serious the matter. Still I 
cannot forget the appealing look which seemed to 
mean approaching danger. I called the little fel- 
low back as he went down the steps, and gave him 
a Sunday-school card. I never saw him again. 
That was Tuesday ; Saturday he was dead ; small- 
pox. He lived just opposite my door. My heav- 
enly Father, can it not be that that picture brought 
some message to him in his last hours ? Some 
thought that was comforting! O God, help me 
before it is too late to be instrumental in saving 
some of these struggling souls who are sinking into 
a hopeless death, while we are helpless except in 
Thine own strength. 



So ends the diary of Dr. Loftis. He himself left 
us August 12th with the typhus fever and small- 
pox. He was trying so hard to care for those poor 



Batang at Last 159 

people. May his words of hope be multiplied a 
hundredfold, and his death wake up hearts at home, 
until the ages echo over the loss of this man ; gen- 
tle, kindly, simple-hearted, earnest and true. How 
we needed him. How Tibet needed him. For 
two years we had watched for him, looked for him, 
and wished for him. It meant another rivet in the 
stability of the Batang mission. He was so happy 
to be with us. He was ready as the rest to endure 
what must come, and what hopes and plans he had, 
how some day, he as a medical man could go to 
Lassa, for that day is coming and not many years 
away, when the great city will be entered by a 
" Jesus man." Is there a better name than that ? 
He fitted into his work and into our home life 
beautifully, declaring he would not exchange his 
life-work with any man living, and declaring in his 
quiet way, " He had found his folks at last," and 
we were glad, so glad, to find him. He saved a 
Tibetan who had taken opium, and the fellow's 
mother's gratitude was unbounded. He spoke of 
how glad he was to be so useful at once, and it is 
only a medical man who can be of immediate use. 
On Wednesday Dr. Loftis came to breakfast and 
asked for a little milk toast, said he was feeling 
badly, went home and to bed. Dr. Shelton said he 
was in for smallpox or some kind of fever, and went 
to him and remained until the end. In a day he 
announced " smallpox " — that was enough. An- 
other day and the unmistakable typhus rash cov- 
ered his body. Oh, how we hoped and prayed for 



l6o A Message from Batang 

our little doctor ! Did you at home forget him and 
us ? We are very far away from you all. I sent 
the doctor his meals and did the washing and all I 
could, but it seemed so very, very little compared 
with what we and the mission had at stake. Then 
the afternoon came when I heard Dr. Shelton sob- 
bing in the yard, and he called me, telling that 
Dr. Loftis had gone. I could not go to him, and 
he dared not come to us. 

It doesn't seem true at all — we have looked so 
long for him, and feel like this was a dreadful 
dream and he will still come to us. He had al- 
ready shouldered his share of the burdens ; but now 
without the hope of his coming and retaking the 
load, it seems twice as heavy, for we have lost him 
too. O may his grave cry out to you at home, and 
as he has said, may it give the inspiration needed to 
take up his work, and die if need be also even as he 
did, in obeying the command, " Go ye." His tomb 
is built on the main road leading to Lassa, a few 
steps to the side, and all passing may read in Eng- 
lish, Tibetan and Chinese. 

F. B. S. 



DEO 29 1911 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 
DEC 23 mi 



